基于环保主义的服装设计理论发展及其应用研究
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摘要
环境问题的日益恶化对人类生存的影响和对社会文明发展的制约促使社会环保意识的觉醒,生态经济模式的建立引发的绿色消费市场扩大和绿色科技革命,确立了服装产业发展的新方向——生态时尚。为了消除产业发展和自然环境之间的各种矛盾,实现服装产业的可持续发展,同时保证产业内部长期的健康稳定,服装设计作为服装产业最初的环节,必然要进行符合生态时尚发展战略和要求的改革。本文通过查阅相关学科领域的著作资料、调研数据、研究成果,以理论论证与例证法相结合的方式,分析和总结了促使基于环保主义的服装设计理论在当今服装产业改革中发展的背景及条件,提出了基于环保主义的可持续服装设计理论发展下针对有机设计、再生设计和慢速设计所形成的有机代替法、循环再制法、仿生设计法以及模拟实验法四种谎报服装设计方法,这些方法运用在服装款式、面料、色彩和工艺等各方面,产生了新的服装廓形风格、服用面料种类、色彩构成和制作工艺。同时本文还提出了基于环保主义的服装设计审美判断以及其在现实服装设计作品审美体验中的运用。
Eco-fashion, a new form of fashion industry has shaped with the rising awareness of environment protection evoked by the desperately deterioration environmental condition that threatened the existence of human beings and restrained progress of civilization as well as the dramatic increase on the demanding and consumption of green product in global market and the green-tech revolution driven by the foundation of eco-economy system. It calls a thorough reformation in fashion design field as the beginning stage of fashion industry in order to eliminate the conflicts between the industry and the nature system, to realize the sustainability and to keep the long-term sanity inside the industry. It plays an vital role in the eco-fashion development the innovation of fashion design theory based on the environmentalism which give the birth to a fresh concept, an improved method, a new way of taste judgment, up-to-date ideas and different aesthetic standards. The application of those environmentalism-based fashion design principles result in the transformation of garment styles, the new choice of materials, the change on colors and the breakthrough of cutting techniques, which considered the efficient practical solutions of promoting eco-fashion industry significantly.
Eco-fashion, a new form of fashion industry has shaped with the rising awareness of environment protection evoked by the desperately deterioration environmental condition that threatened the existence of human beings and restrained progress of civilization as well as the dramatic increase on the demanding and consumption of green product in global market and the green-tech revolution driven by the foundation of eco-economy system. It calls a thorough reformation in fashion design field as the beginning stage of fashion industry in order to eliminate the conflicts between the industry and the nature system, to realize the sustainability and to keep the long-term sanity inside the industry. It plays an vital role in the eco-fashion development the innovation of fashion design theory based on the environmentalism which give the birth to a fresh concept, an improved method, a new way of taste judgment, up-to-date ideas and different aesthetic standards. The application of those environmentalism-based fashion design principles result in the transformation of garment styles, the new choice of materials, the change on colors and the breakthrough of cutting techniques, which considered the efficient practical solutions of promoting eco-fashion industry significantly.
引文
1 United Nations, "Process of preparation of the Environmental Perspective to the Year 2000 and Beyond." General Assembly Resolution 38/161,19 December 1983.
2 United Nations, "Process of preparation of the Environmental Perspective to the Year 2000 and Beyond." General Assembly Resolution 38/161,19 December 1983.
3 American Heritage Dictionary,4th edition,2004, ISBN:061845300833
4《中国大百科全书(环境科学卷)》,中国大百科全书出版社,1993年
5《中华人民共和国环境保护法》,1989, http://www. envir. gov. cn/law/envir. htm
6 L.Gari (2002), "Arabic Treatises on Environmental Pollution up to the End of the Thirteenth Century", Environment and History, pp.475-488.
7[战国]列御寇，《列子》，山西古籍出版社，1999，第75页
8王永晨，中国绿色行动(和平发展的中国)，新世界出版社，2006年，第107页
9 James R. Fleming, Bethany R. Knorr, History of the Clean Air Act, American Meteorological Society,2006, P.96-103
10 Terry L. Anderson and Donald R. Leaf, Free-market environmentalism, Palgrave,2001 revised edition, p.241
11 Robin Hahnel, Economic Justice and Democracy:From Competition to Cooperation (Pathways Through the Twenty-First Century), Routledge Taylor & francis group,2005, p.66-72
12 Lester R. Brown, Eco-economy, Earth Policy Institute,2001, p.33
13 Thomas Kuhn, the Structure of Scientific Revolutions, University of Chicago Press,1996
14 Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek et al., Factor 10:Making Sustainability Accountable, Putting Resource Productivity into Praxis, Factor 10 Club,1998, p.5.
15 Lester R. Brown, Eco-economy, Earth Policy Institute,2001, p.57
Defra 2007,www.defra.gov.uk/environment/consumerprod/products/clothing.htm
17 http://www.stepin.org
18 www.earthpledge.org
19 Dr. Hirschler R., Pollution Prevention Through Automation in Textile Dyeing and Printing, London college of fashion,2007, p.17-21
20 http://www.lenntech.com/specific-questions-water-quantities.htm
21 Kasra Ferdows, Michael A. Lewis and Jose A.D. Machuca, Rapid-Fire Fulfillment, Harvard Business Review, Vol. 82,2004, p.39
22 Julian M. Allwoodetal, Well Dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the UK, www.ifm.eng.cam.ac.uk/sustainability, University of Cambridge Institute for Manufacturing,2006
23 Karen Attwood, Cheap Fashion:The trend may be over, The Independent,2007, p.57-59
24 Alison Benjamin, Clothing joins green drive, The Guardian,2007 SEP.
30 Lester R. Brown, Eco-economy, Earth Policy Institute,2001, p.174-175
33刘晓刚主编，服装设计概论，东北大学出版社，2008，第249页
34 A. Zald, H.G. Hughes, E. Porceddu, F. Nicholas, Glossary of Biotechnology for Food and Agriculture, FAO,2004, P.37
35 "Organism", Chambers 21st Century Dictionary,1999.
36 Organic Trade Association, Organic Cotton Facts, http://www.ota.com/organic,2008
37 http://www.organicexchange.org
38 Johneen Manning, Organic wool clothing-eco friendly practices produce sustainable fashion, Sustainable fashion,2008, p.34
39 Paul R, Solans C, Erra P, Study of a natural dye solubilisation In o/w micro emulsions and its dyeing behavior, Colloids And Surfaces A-Physicochemical And Engineering vol.253,2005, p.175-181
40 DEDHIA E M, An eco-friendly process of dyeing textile material with the extract of tagetus erecta flower, 2006, Patent Number(s):IN200500338-13
41 BAID A M, Dyeing of textile article, e.g. raw fiber, woven fabric, knitted fabric, nonwoven fabric, and stitched garment, for herbal wear or cloths, by using medicinally rich herbs,2004, Patent Number(s):WO2004072182-A2; IN200300054-13; US2007240266-A1
42 The Garbage Primer, The League of Women Voters, Lyons & Burford. NY.,1993, p.35-72.
43 Matilda Lee, Fashion Please, Ecologist No.37,2007, p.59
44陈蕾,当代服装设计中的废弃物色彩研究,装饰,2005 No.9,29-31页
45 Kate Fletcher, Slow fashion, Ecofogist no.5,2007, p.61
46黑格尔 著,美学,朱光潜中译本,1996,商务印书馆,135页
47黑格尔 著,美学,朱光潜中译本,1996,商务印书馆,142页
48 Zangwill Nick, Aesthetic Judgment,2003, Stanford Encyclopedia of Philosophy, P.47-63
49康德,判断力批判,邓晓芒中译本,人民出版社2002年版,第51页
50审美共通感与现代社会,尤西林,文艺研究LITERATURE AND ART STUDIES,2008年第3期,第29-32页
51康德判断力批判,邓晓芒中译本,人民出版社,2002年版,第76页
52康德 判断力批判,邓晓芒中译本,人民出版社,2002年版,第137页
53 H. Maslow, A Theory of Human Motivation Originally Published in Psychological Review(1943), Classics in the History of Psychology, ISSN 1492-3713, Toronto,2000, p.370-396.
1. United Nations, "Process of preparation of the Environmental Perspective to the Year 2000 and Beyond." General Assembly Resolution 38/161,19 December 1983.
2. L. Gari (2002), "Arabic Treatises on Environmental Pollution up to the End of the Thirteenth Century", Environment and History, pp.475-488.
3.[战国]列御寇,《列子》,山西古籍出版社,1999,第56-75页
4.王永晨,中国绿色行动(和平发展的中国),新世界出版社,2006年,第80-107页
5. James R. Fleming, Bethany R. Knorr, History of the Clean Air Act, American Meteorological Society,2006, P.96-103
6. Terry L. Anderson and Donald R. Leal, Free-market environmentalism, Palgrave, 2001, p.241-257
7. Robin Hahnel, Economic Justice and Democracy:From Competition to Cooperation (Pathways Through the Twenty-First Century), Routledge Taylor & francis group,2005, pp66-72
8. Lester R. Brown, Eco-economy, Earth Policy Institute,2001, p.33-57
9. Thomas Kuhn, the Structure of Scientific Revolutions, University of Chicago Press,1996
10. Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek et al., Factor 10:Making Sustainability Accountable, Putting Resource Productivity into Praxis, Factor 10 Club,1998, p.5.
11. Lester R. Brown, Eco-Economy:Building an Economy for the Earth, W. W. Norton & Company; 2001 1st edition, p.80-93
12. Dr. Hirschler R., Pollution Prevention Through Automation in Textile Dyeing and Printing, London college of fashion,2007, p.17-21
13. Kasra Ferdows, Michael A. Lewis and Jose A.D. Machuca, Rapid-Fire Fulfillment, Harvard Business Review, Vol.82,2004, p.39-56
14. Karen Attwood, Cheap Fashion:The trend may be over, The Independent,2007, p.57-59
15. Julian M. Allwoodetal, Well Dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the UK, University of Cambridge Institute for Manufacturing,2006, www.ifm.eng.cam.ac.uk/sustainability
16. Alison Benjamin, Clothing joins green drive, The Guardian,2007 SEP.
17. Lucy Siegle, The history of eco fashion, Thread Magazine,2008 No.3, p.29-35
18. A. Zaid, H.G. Hughes, E. Porceddu, F. Nicholas, Glossary of Biotechnology for Food and Agriculture, FAO,2004, P.37
19. Kate Fletcher, Slow fashion, Ecologist no.5,2007, p.61-79
20.刘晓刚主编,服装设计概论,东华大学出版社,2008,第239-282页
21. The Garbage Primer, The League of Women Voters, Lyons & Burford. NY.,1993, p.35-72.
22. Johneen Manning, Organic wool clothing-eco friendly practices produce sustainable fashion, Sustainable fashion,2008, p.34-87
23. Matilda Lee, Fashion Please, Ecologist No.37,2007, p.59-63
24. Paul R, Solans C, Erra P, Study of a natural dye solubilisation in o/w micro emulsions and its dyeing behavior, Colloids And Surfaces A-Physicochemical And Engineering vol.253,2005, p.175-181
25. DEDHIA E M, An eco-friendly process of dyeing textile material with the extract of tagetus erecta flower,2006, Patent Number(s):IN200500338-I3
26. BAID A M, Dyeing of textile article, e.g. raw fiber, woven fabric, knitted fabric, nonwoven fabric, and stitched garment, for herbal wear or cloths, by using medicinally rich herbs,2004, Patent Number(s):WO2004072182-A2; IN200300054-I3; US2007240266-A1
27.陈蕾,当代服装设计中的废弃物色彩研究,装饰,2005 No.9,29-31页
28.黑格尔,美学,朱光潜中译本,商务印书馆,1996, 第135-142页
29. Zangwill Nick, Aesthetic Judgment,2003, Stanford Encyclopedia of Philosophy, P.47-63
30.康德,判断力批判,邓晓芒中译本,人民出版社,2002年,第51-137页
31.尤西林,审美共通感与现代社会, 文艺研究LITERATURE AND ARTSTUDIES,2008年第3期,第29-32页
32. H. Maslow, A Theory of Human Motivation Originally Published in Psychological Review (1943), Classics in the History of Psychology, ISSN 1492-3713, Toronto,2000, p.370-396.
2 United Nations, "Process of preparation of the Environmental Perspective to the Year 2000 and Beyond." General Assembly Resolution 38/161,19 December 1983.
3 American Heritage Dictionary,4th edition,2004, ISBN:061845300833
4《中国大百科全书(环境科学卷)》,中国大百科全书出版社,1993年
5《中华人民共和国环境保护法》,1989, http://www. envir. gov. cn/law/envir. htm
6 L.Gari (2002), "Arabic Treatises on Environmental Pollution up to the End of the Thirteenth Century", Environment and History, pp.475-488.
7[战国]列御寇，《列子》，山西古籍出版社，1999，第75页
8王永晨，中国绿色行动(和平发展的中国)，新世界出版社，2006年，第107页
9 James R. Fleming, Bethany R. Knorr, History of the Clean Air Act, American Meteorological Society,2006, P.96-103
10 Terry L. Anderson and Donald R. Leaf, Free-market environmentalism, Palgrave,2001 revised edition, p.241
11 Robin Hahnel, Economic Justice and Democracy:From Competition to Cooperation (Pathways Through the Twenty-First Century), Routledge Taylor & francis group,2005, p.66-72
12 Lester R. Brown, Eco-economy, Earth Policy Institute,2001, p.33
13 Thomas Kuhn, the Structure of Scientific Revolutions, University of Chicago Press,1996
14 Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek et al., Factor 10:Making Sustainability Accountable, Putting Resource Productivity into Praxis, Factor 10 Club,1998, p.5.
15 Lester R. Brown, Eco-economy, Earth Policy Institute,2001, p.57
Defra 2007,www.defra.gov.uk/environment/consumerprod/products/clothing.htm
17 http://www.stepin.org
18 www.earthpledge.org
19 Dr. Hirschler R., Pollution Prevention Through Automation in Textile Dyeing and Printing, London college of fashion,2007, p.17-21
20 http://www.lenntech.com/specific-questions-water-quantities.htm
21 Kasra Ferdows, Michael A. Lewis and Jose A.D. Machuca, Rapid-Fire Fulfillment, Harvard Business Review, Vol. 82,2004, p.39
22 Julian M. Allwoodetal, Well Dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the UK, www.ifm.eng.cam.ac.uk/sustainability, University of Cambridge Institute for Manufacturing,2006
23 Karen Attwood, Cheap Fashion:The trend may be over, The Independent,2007, p.57-59
24 Alison Benjamin, Clothing joins green drive, The Guardian,2007 SEP.
30 Lester R. Brown, Eco-economy, Earth Policy Institute,2001, p.174-175
33刘晓刚主编，服装设计概论，东北大学出版社，2008，第249页
34 A. Zald, H.G. Hughes, E. Porceddu, F. Nicholas, Glossary of Biotechnology for Food and Agriculture, FAO,2004, P.37
35 "Organism", Chambers 21st Century Dictionary,1999.
36 Organic Trade Association, Organic Cotton Facts, http://www.ota.com/organic,2008
37 http://www.organicexchange.org
38 Johneen Manning, Organic wool clothing-eco friendly practices produce sustainable fashion, Sustainable fashion,2008, p.34
39 Paul R, Solans C, Erra P, Study of a natural dye solubilisation In o/w micro emulsions and its dyeing behavior, Colloids And Surfaces A-Physicochemical And Engineering vol.253,2005, p.175-181
40 DEDHIA E M, An eco-friendly process of dyeing textile material with the extract of tagetus erecta flower, 2006, Patent Number(s):IN200500338-13
41 BAID A M, Dyeing of textile article, e.g. raw fiber, woven fabric, knitted fabric, nonwoven fabric, and stitched garment, for herbal wear or cloths, by using medicinally rich herbs,2004, Patent Number(s):WO2004072182-A2; IN200300054-13; US2007240266-A1
42 The Garbage Primer, The League of Women Voters, Lyons & Burford. NY.,1993, p.35-72.
43 Matilda Lee, Fashion Please, Ecologist No.37,2007, p.59
44陈蕾,当代服装设计中的废弃物色彩研究,装饰,2005 No.9,29-31页
45 Kate Fletcher, Slow fashion, Ecofogist no.5,2007, p.61
46黑格尔 著,美学,朱光潜中译本,1996,商务印书馆,135页
47黑格尔 著,美学,朱光潜中译本,1996,商务印书馆,142页
48 Zangwill Nick, Aesthetic Judgment,2003, Stanford Encyclopedia of Philosophy, P.47-63
49康德,判断力批判,邓晓芒中译本,人民出版社2002年版,第51页
50审美共通感与现代社会,尤西林,文艺研究LITERATURE AND ART STUDIES,2008年第3期,第29-32页
51康德判断力批判,邓晓芒中译本,人民出版社,2002年版,第76页
52康德 判断力批判,邓晓芒中译本,人民出版社,2002年版,第137页
53 H. Maslow, A Theory of Human Motivation Originally Published in Psychological Review(1943), Classics in the History of Psychology, ISSN 1492-3713, Toronto,2000, p.370-396.
1. United Nations, "Process of preparation of the Environmental Perspective to the Year 2000 and Beyond." General Assembly Resolution 38/161,19 December 1983.
2. L. Gari (2002), "Arabic Treatises on Environmental Pollution up to the End of the Thirteenth Century", Environment and History, pp.475-488.
3.[战国]列御寇,《列子》,山西古籍出版社,1999,第56-75页
4.王永晨,中国绿色行动(和平发展的中国),新世界出版社,2006年,第80-107页
5. James R. Fleming, Bethany R. Knorr, History of the Clean Air Act, American Meteorological Society,2006, P.96-103
6. Terry L. Anderson and Donald R. Leal, Free-market environmentalism, Palgrave, 2001, p.241-257
7. Robin Hahnel, Economic Justice and Democracy:From Competition to Cooperation (Pathways Through the Twenty-First Century), Routledge Taylor & francis group,2005, pp66-72
8. Lester R. Brown, Eco-economy, Earth Policy Institute,2001, p.33-57
9. Thomas Kuhn, the Structure of Scientific Revolutions, University of Chicago Press,1996
10. Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek et al., Factor 10:Making Sustainability Accountable, Putting Resource Productivity into Praxis, Factor 10 Club,1998, p.5.
11. Lester R. Brown, Eco-Economy:Building an Economy for the Earth, W. W. Norton & Company; 2001 1st edition, p.80-93
12. Dr. Hirschler R., Pollution Prevention Through Automation in Textile Dyeing and Printing, London college of fashion,2007, p.17-21
13. Kasra Ferdows, Michael A. Lewis and Jose A.D. Machuca, Rapid-Fire Fulfillment, Harvard Business Review, Vol.82,2004, p.39-56
14. Karen Attwood, Cheap Fashion:The trend may be over, The Independent,2007, p.57-59
15. Julian M. Allwoodetal, Well Dressed? The present and future sustainability of clothing and textiles in the UK, University of Cambridge Institute for Manufacturing,2006, www.ifm.eng.cam.ac.uk/sustainability
16. Alison Benjamin, Clothing joins green drive, The Guardian,2007 SEP.
17. Lucy Siegle, The history of eco fashion, Thread Magazine,2008 No.3, p.29-35
18. A. Zaid, H.G. Hughes, E. Porceddu, F. Nicholas, Glossary of Biotechnology for Food and Agriculture, FAO,2004, P.37
19. Kate Fletcher, Slow fashion, Ecologist no.5,2007, p.61-79
20.刘晓刚主编,服装设计概论,东华大学出版社,2008,第239-282页
21. The Garbage Primer, The League of Women Voters, Lyons & Burford. NY.,1993, p.35-72.
22. Johneen Manning, Organic wool clothing-eco friendly practices produce sustainable fashion, Sustainable fashion,2008, p.34-87
23. Matilda Lee, Fashion Please, Ecologist No.37,2007, p.59-63
24. Paul R, Solans C, Erra P, Study of a natural dye solubilisation in o/w micro emulsions and its dyeing behavior, Colloids And Surfaces A-Physicochemical And Engineering vol.253,2005, p.175-181
25. DEDHIA E M, An eco-friendly process of dyeing textile material with the extract of tagetus erecta flower,2006, Patent Number(s):IN200500338-I3
26. BAID A M, Dyeing of textile article, e.g. raw fiber, woven fabric, knitted fabric, nonwoven fabric, and stitched garment, for herbal wear or cloths, by using medicinally rich herbs,2004, Patent Number(s):WO2004072182-A2; IN200300054-I3; US2007240266-A1
27.陈蕾,当代服装设计中的废弃物色彩研究,装饰,2005 No.9,29-31页
28.黑格尔,美学,朱光潜中译本,商务印书馆,1996, 第135-142页
29. Zangwill Nick, Aesthetic Judgment,2003, Stanford Encyclopedia of Philosophy, P.47-63
30.康德,判断力批判,邓晓芒中译本,人民出版社,2002年,第51-137页
31.尤西林,审美共通感与现代社会, 文艺研究LITERATURE AND ARTSTUDIES,2008年第3期,第29-32页
32. H. Maslow, A Theory of Human Motivation Originally Published in Psychological Review (1943), Classics in the History of Psychology, ISSN 1492-3713, Toronto,2000, p.370-396.
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