Investigation of breaking and non-breaking solitary waves and measurements of swash zone dynamics on a 5° beach

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• 作者：Lisa Smith ; Atle Jensen ; Geir Pedersen
• 关键词：Breaking solitary waves ; PIV ; Boundary layers ; Runup ; Bubble entrainment
• 刊名：Coastal Engineering
• 出版年：2017
• 出版时间：February 2017
• 年：2017
• 卷：120
• 期：Complete
• 页码：38-46
• 全文大小：1380 K
• 卷排序：120

文摘

For runup of non-breaking solitary waves we observe laminar boundary layers. Computed (BIM) and measured (PIV) velocity profiles agree for for the smallest wave. The uid motion becomes more irregular and less repeatable as we move further up the beach for the breaking waves. Maximum runup was repeatable in both time and height, although cross-sectional variations of the shoreline shape was observed.