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泡泡纱织物成形机理及加工技术研究
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摘要
泡泡纱是一种传统的纺织品。人们通常是在有梭机上织造泡泡纱。有梭织机车速低,上机张力小,便于调节设定相应的工艺参数。故人们习惯上认为小张力织造是泡泡纱织造的唯一条件。随着科学技术的发展,高速无梭织机越来越普及。无梭织机速度高、上机张力大,这是大家所公认的。能否在高速无梭织机大张力条件下织造泡泡纱,生产与有梭织机有着同样起泡效果的泡泡纱将成为推广无梭织机的一个新课题。
     本文通过分析发现,泡泡纱形成的主因是:在两套独立送经机构送出不同的经纱的情况下,同一幅织物上,两组不同的组织结构的经纱系统由于其打纬阻力不同,产生不同的织物形成区宽度,在织物形成区内形成不同的纬密,产生不同的织物长度,才是真正形成泡泡纱的原因。泡泡纱形成的一个最主要的因素是织物形成区的宽度。泡经张力只是影响织物形成区宽度的一个因素。喷气织机速度高上机张力大,不可能采用过小的泡经张力。但可通过调节开口肘间、补偿时间、补偿量及织机上机弹性系统的刚度,增加泡组织织物形成区的宽度,达到增加泡比的目的。
     后粱补偿量大小直接影响补偿效果。适中的补偿量可起到平抑张力的作用。适中的补偿时间,与补偿量适当配合,可得到较理想的经纱张力补偿。过早或过迟都可能加大经纱张力的波动。织造泡泡纱为达到好的起泡质量,补偿量以中等为佳,补偿时间以早为宜。这样可保证打纬时泡经张力低,便于织造起泡,而引纬时,经纱张力大,梭口清晰,有利于引纬,减少纬停。
     高速喷气织机织造泡泡纱的工艺原则:首先调低泡经张力,如果出现织造效率下降,转为推迟开口时间,从而达到增大泡比,维持一定的织造效率的目的。如果泡比仍然不足或织造效率有所降低,采用增大补偿量以及提早补偿时间的办法。
     根据泡泡纱起泡原理,开发了多种泡泡纱产品,泡泡纱从单一的条状泡泡纱发展到经纬双向起泡,间歇起泡,以及提花泡泡纱。
Seer-sucker is a kind of conventional fabric woven in the shuttle loom with low speed and tiny tension, which is easy to adjust art parameter. Due to the tiny tension of shuttle loom, people used to consider it as the only condition of seersucker production. With the development of science and technology, high speed shuttleless loom with high tension, which was a general knowledge, become more and more popular. So it has turned out to be a new task for promoting shuttleless loom that whether it would have the same pucker effect when producing seersucker in the high-speed shuttleless loom compared with the shuttle loom.
     The research of this article shows the key factor to weave seersucker is the width if fabric-forming area. Under the condition of two self-governed let-off units, two different warp systems have their own width of fabric-forming area due to different resistance of beating-up. Therefore they have different weft density in the fabric-forming area, which leads to different fabric length. That is the real reason of seersucker forming. The tension of pucker warp is only a factor affecting the fabric-forming area. Air-jet loom runs at high speed with high warp tension. The tension of pucker warp cannot be set too low, but the width of fabric forming area can be increased by adjusting shedding time, compensating time, and compensating amount as well, which can help to increase the ratio of pucker.
     The compensating amount of the warp guide-rod directly influences the effect of compensation. So does the compensating time of warp guide rod. Suitable amount and time could easy tension, but larger amount or improper time would worsen tension. In conclusion, in order to gain good pucker effect, moderate amount and early time are the best, which can guarantee low tension at beating-up, so it is easy to make fabric pucker, and large tension at the picking, which makes shed clear, decreases picking failure.
     The parameter-setting principle of high-speed air-jet loom has been confirmed as: firstly, lower the pucker warp tension, if the weaving efficiency drops, then shift to delay shedding time, in order to increase pucker ratio and maintain the efficiency. If it still doesn't work, then increase the compensating amount and bring forward compensating time.
     Based on the seersucker theory found in this article, kinds of seersucker's product are developed, which include not only simple stripe ones but also double-wise(warp-weft) pucker, intermittent pucker seersucker and Dobby seersucker.
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