天然彩棉纤维针织物尺寸稳定性研究
|
摘要
天然彩棉是当今国际纺织行业“绿色纺织品”研究与开发的热点。天然彩棉是利用生物基因工程等高科技手段培育的新型棉花品种。天然彩棉经过生物酶处理后，其色泽自然持久、质地柔软、穿着舒适，是二十一世纪人类最佳的绿色、健康、时尚的纺织品，代表了从生产、处理、使用三个环节生态纺织品发展的方向。发展彩棉产业是环境保护和经济发展协调的必然结果，是国内外市场的迫切需求，因此具有广阔的前景。
但是在彩色棉开发过程中，我们也发现了彩棉产品的一些不足之处，比如色谱单调、色素不稳定、彩棉产品容易变色、彩色棉纤维品质较差、尺寸稳定差等，尤其是彩棉产品尺寸稳定性较差极大的影响了彩棉成衣产品的整体质量。本课题主要从彩棉织物的编织工艺、与不同原料混纺、加入PTT交织、利用生物酶整理及热定型等方面着手，研究其尺寸稳定性能及同时对其它服用性能的影响。
论文首先对所选用的原料进行了测试分析，发现了彩棉纱线比纯白棉纱线强力要低，表面毛羽要多且彩棉纱线的缩水率较白棉纱大。同时也得出彩棉纤维混入其它再生纤维或超细涤后，其纱线品质也较彩棉纱有所改善。
论文接下来探讨了织物编织的紧密程度对其缩水率的影响，同时也对比分析了彩棉织物中，彩棉与白棉的不同配比对其织物尺寸稳定性的影响。我们通过研究发现，同一原料织物的编织密度越高，织物的尺寸稳定性越好，同时随着不同混纺比的彩棉织物随着彩棉含量比率的增加，其缩水情况越严重。
论文继续研究了彩棉纤维混纺其它再生纤维或超细涤对其织物尺寸稳定性能的影响。我们通过试验分析得知，彩棉纤维混纺Modal纤维、Tencel纤维、Richcel纤维和超细涤等原料之后，在同样的编织工艺下织物尺寸稳定性能都较白棉与彩棉混纺织物尺寸稳定有所改善，其中混入超细涤以后改善更加明显。
论文然后研究了彩棉与PTT交织后对其尺寸稳定性的影响，我们通过研究发现，PTT与彩棉交织可以减小织物的缩水率，并随着PTT含量的增加缩水率呈减小趋势。但织物的透气性变差。
论文最后从彩棉织物的后整理工艺方面研究。首先通过生物酶整理工艺，对织物的缩水率进行了研究，通过生物酶整理前后的比较分析，得出了合理的生物酶的整理能减小织物的缩水率，改善织物的尺寸稳定，同时也能改善织物的手感、起毛起球、毛效等其它服用性能。接着通过选择不同的热定型工艺，通过正交试验，采用极差分析得出了彩棉织物的最佳热定型工艺条件。
Under the theme of "green textiles", the research and development of natural colored cotton is very popular in today's international textile industry. Natural colored cotton is a new cotton variety fostered by using bio-genetic engineering and other high-tech means. Through natural biological enzyme treatment, natural colored cotton can have lasting natural color, soft texture, wearing comfort. It is green, healthy and fashionable, which will be the best textiles in the 21st century. The industrial development of natural colored cotton is the inevitable result of coordination between environmental protection and economic development. It is the urgent needs of both home and abroad market, and thus it has a broad prospect.
However, in colored cotton development process, a number of shortcomings of colored cotton products were found, such as chromatography monotonous, pigment and color lability and poor colored cotton fiber quality. In particular, the poor dimensional stability has great effect on the overall quality of colored cotton clothing products. In this paper, the topics from natural colored cotton fabric weaving techniques, blended with different materials, adding PTT interwoven to the use of biology enzyme and thermosetting were discussed to investigate its dimensional stability and their influence on other apparel properties.
Firstly, the selected materials were tested and analyzed. The results showed that compared with the white cotton yarn, the colored cotton yarn had lower tenacity, more surface hairiness and greater shrinkage rate. Meanwhile, it was found that the quality of natural colored cotton yarn could be improved by blending with other renewable fiber or superfine polyester.
Secondly, the influence of woven fabric compactness on the shrinkage rate was discussed. Meanwhile, the influence of the different blended ratio of the colored cotton and white cotton fabric on the dimensional stability was also analyzed. It was found that the higher the density of the same woven fabric, the better of fabric dimensional stability; the higher content of natural colored cotton, the greater of the shrinkage rate.
Thirdly, the influence of blending the natural colored cotton with renewable fibers or superfine polyester fiber on the dimensional stability was studied. Under the same weaving techniques, the fabric got better dimensional stability after blending with Modal fiber, Tencel, Richcel and superfine Polyester fibers in particular.
After that, natural colored cotton was intertwined with PTT, and the dimensional stability was measured. It was found that PTT intertwined with colored cotton fabric had reduced shrinkage, and shrinkage was decreased with the increasing trend of PTT. However, the air permeability became worse.
Biology enzyme finishing was employed afterwards. The fabric shrinkage was measured. Through analysis, it was found that the Biology enzyme finishing can reduce the fabric shrinkage and improve the dimensional stability. It could also improve the fabric handle, anti-pilling, capillary effect and other apparel properties. Finally, the optimum thermosetting conditions were obtained by orthogonal test and rank analysis.
但是在彩色棉开发过程中，我们也发现了彩棉产品的一些不足之处，比如色谱单调、色素不稳定、彩棉产品容易变色、彩色棉纤维品质较差、尺寸稳定差等，尤其是彩棉产品尺寸稳定性较差极大的影响了彩棉成衣产品的整体质量。本课题主要从彩棉织物的编织工艺、与不同原料混纺、加入PTT交织、利用生物酶整理及热定型等方面着手，研究其尺寸稳定性能及同时对其它服用性能的影响。
论文首先对所选用的原料进行了测试分析，发现了彩棉纱线比纯白棉纱线强力要低，表面毛羽要多且彩棉纱线的缩水率较白棉纱大。同时也得出彩棉纤维混入其它再生纤维或超细涤后，其纱线品质也较彩棉纱有所改善。
论文接下来探讨了织物编织的紧密程度对其缩水率的影响，同时也对比分析了彩棉织物中，彩棉与白棉的不同配比对其织物尺寸稳定性的影响。我们通过研究发现，同一原料织物的编织密度越高，织物的尺寸稳定性越好，同时随着不同混纺比的彩棉织物随着彩棉含量比率的增加，其缩水情况越严重。
论文继续研究了彩棉纤维混纺其它再生纤维或超细涤对其织物尺寸稳定性能的影响。我们通过试验分析得知，彩棉纤维混纺Modal纤维、Tencel纤维、Richcel纤维和超细涤等原料之后，在同样的编织工艺下织物尺寸稳定性能都较白棉与彩棉混纺织物尺寸稳定有所改善，其中混入超细涤以后改善更加明显。
论文然后研究了彩棉与PTT交织后对其尺寸稳定性的影响，我们通过研究发现，PTT与彩棉交织可以减小织物的缩水率，并随着PTT含量的增加缩水率呈减小趋势。但织物的透气性变差。
论文最后从彩棉织物的后整理工艺方面研究。首先通过生物酶整理工艺，对织物的缩水率进行了研究，通过生物酶整理前后的比较分析，得出了合理的生物酶的整理能减小织物的缩水率，改善织物的尺寸稳定，同时也能改善织物的手感、起毛起球、毛效等其它服用性能。接着通过选择不同的热定型工艺，通过正交试验，采用极差分析得出了彩棉织物的最佳热定型工艺条件。
Under the theme of "green textiles", the research and development of natural colored cotton is very popular in today's international textile industry. Natural colored cotton is a new cotton variety fostered by using bio-genetic engineering and other high-tech means. Through natural biological enzyme treatment, natural colored cotton can have lasting natural color, soft texture, wearing comfort. It is green, healthy and fashionable, which will be the best textiles in the 21st century. The industrial development of natural colored cotton is the inevitable result of coordination between environmental protection and economic development. It is the urgent needs of both home and abroad market, and thus it has a broad prospect.
However, in colored cotton development process, a number of shortcomings of colored cotton products were found, such as chromatography monotonous, pigment and color lability and poor colored cotton fiber quality. In particular, the poor dimensional stability has great effect on the overall quality of colored cotton clothing products. In this paper, the topics from natural colored cotton fabric weaving techniques, blended with different materials, adding PTT interwoven to the use of biology enzyme and thermosetting were discussed to investigate its dimensional stability and their influence on other apparel properties.
Firstly, the selected materials were tested and analyzed. The results showed that compared with the white cotton yarn, the colored cotton yarn had lower tenacity, more surface hairiness and greater shrinkage rate. Meanwhile, it was found that the quality of natural colored cotton yarn could be improved by blending with other renewable fiber or superfine polyester.
Secondly, the influence of woven fabric compactness on the shrinkage rate was discussed. Meanwhile, the influence of the different blended ratio of the colored cotton and white cotton fabric on the dimensional stability was also analyzed. It was found that the higher the density of the same woven fabric, the better of fabric dimensional stability; the higher content of natural colored cotton, the greater of the shrinkage rate.
Thirdly, the influence of blending the natural colored cotton with renewable fibers or superfine polyester fiber on the dimensional stability was studied. Under the same weaving techniques, the fabric got better dimensional stability after blending with Modal fiber, Tencel, Richcel and superfine Polyester fibers in particular.
After that, natural colored cotton was intertwined with PTT, and the dimensional stability was measured. It was found that PTT intertwined with colored cotton fabric had reduced shrinkage, and shrinkage was decreased with the increasing trend of PTT. However, the air permeability became worse.
Biology enzyme finishing was employed afterwards. The fabric shrinkage was measured. Through analysis, it was found that the Biology enzyme finishing can reduce the fabric shrinkage and improve the dimensional stability. It could also improve the fabric handle, anti-pilling, capillary effect and other apparel properties. Finally, the optimum thermosetting conditions were obtained by orthogonal test and rank analysis.
引文
[1] 邱新棉．发展自然彩色棉前景广阔．江西棉花．1998，(6)：7-9
[2] 程明、柯娜．彩棉与白棉结构与性能的比较．中国纤检，2006，(3)：29-30
[3] 张镁、胡伯陶、赵向前．天然彩色棉的基础和应用．北京：中国纺织出版社，2005
[4] 邓福军、陈谦、汤振江等．彩色棉的科研现状与发展前景(上)．世界农业，2005，309(1)：48-50
[5] 张庆辉、夏川、开吴珍．天然彩色棉现状及未来发展趋势．天津纺织科技，2002，40(3)：2-5
[6] 唐志荣、陈广利．天然彩色棉发展中存在的问题及对策．中国棉花，2004，31(1)：2-4
[7] 余序芬等．纺织材料实验技术．北京：中国纺织出版社，2004
[8] 柳世龙．提高纬编针织物尺寸稳定性的探讨．上海纺织科技，2001，29(4)：39-40
[9] 冯涣然．大豆蛋白针织物尺寸稳定性研究．东华大学学位论文，2003
[10] E. Tompkin. The Science of Knitting, John Willey&Sons, New York, 1914
[11] P. J. D oyle. J. Text. Inst, 1953, 44: 561
[12] D. L . Munden. J. Text. Inst, 1959, 50: 4480
[13] R. Postle And D. L. Munden. J. Text Inst, 1967, 58(8): 329-351
[14] W. E. Shinn, Text. Res. J, 1955, 25: 2700
[15] J. Chamblain, Hosieery Yarn And Fabrics, 1949, (2): 106-108
[16] F. T. Peirce, Text. Res. J, 1947, (17): 123
[17] G. A. V. Leaf. And D. L. Munden, H. A. IK. A., Production Note, 1956, (8)
[18] H. M. Fletcher And S. H. Roberts. Text. Res. J, 1952, (22): 84
[19] H. M. Fletcher And S. H. Roberts. Text. Res. J, 1952, (23): 87
[20] B. Norwick, Paper Presented At the 36th Annal Meeting OF The Textile Research Institute, New York, 1966, (3): 30
[21] A. Vekassay. actu. tech. Acael. Sci. Hung, 1960, (31): 690
[22] T. S . Nutting. And G. A. V. Leaf, J. Text. Inst, 1963, (54): 745
[23] A. E. Love, The Mathematical Theory of Elasticity, Cambridge University Press, Chambridge, 1970
[24] G. A. V. Leaf., A Property of i Buckled Elastic Rod. Brit. J. Apple Phys, 1958, (9): 2
[25] F. T. Peirce, J. Text. Inst, 1973, (28): 73
[26] B. Ologfson., J. Text. Inst., 1954, (55): 541
[27] R. Postle And D. L. Munden., J. Text. Inst., 1967, 8, 58, 352-365
[28] D. L. Munden., Knitting Group Conference At Buxton On8th, 1958, 4
[29] Michzel Tyndall R, Donald Bailey L, Kelly Tuck L. Shrinkage Control of Cotton Knits by Mechanical Techniques. TCC, 1990, (22): 19-22
[30] 邱冠雄．棉针织物缩水率测试的新方法．纺织学报，1989，(9)：32-34
[31] 姚穆等．纺织材料学．北京：中国纺织出版社，1980
[32] 余序芬等．纺织材料实验技术．北京：中国纺织出版社，2004
[33] Knit Time, 1987, 13-18
[34] T. S. Nutting and G. A. V Leaf. Text., 1964, 55: 45
[35] Centre De Recherches De La Bonneterie, Bull Inst. Text. France, 1964, 18: 421
[36] 温宇、吴德皋、吴林霞、潭永忠．超细涤纶纤维纺纱研究．广西纺织科技，1998，27(1)：7-10
[37] 朱碧红．超细涤纶／棉仿丝绸织物的开发．纺织导报，2002，(6)：77-78
[38] 刘雪峥、李鸿玉、厉重先．棉织物纤维素酶促进剂后处理的研究．北京联合大学学报(自然科学版)，2003，17(3)：44-47
[39] 龙德树、杨传强、胡萍、吴学君．天然彩棉针织物生物酶整理工艺质量分析．印染，2004，(6)：7-9
[40] 张镁．天然彩棉复合生物酶精练．印染，2003，(增刊)：36-41)
[41] 周文龙．酶在纺织中的应用．北京：中国纺织出版社，2002：153-156、272-274
[42] 李群、赵昔慧．酶在纺织印染工业中的应用．北京：化学工业出版社．2006．4：15-17
[43] 冯愈、伍建国、汪南方．影响天然彩棉色变及服用性能的工艺探讨．纺织科技进展，2006(2)：46-48
[44] 许兰杰．天然彩棉的色度分析．丹东纺专学报．2004，11(4)：66-67，47
[2] 程明、柯娜．彩棉与白棉结构与性能的比较．中国纤检，2006，(3)：29-30
[3] 张镁、胡伯陶、赵向前．天然彩色棉的基础和应用．北京：中国纺织出版社，2005
[4] 邓福军、陈谦、汤振江等．彩色棉的科研现状与发展前景(上)．世界农业，2005，309(1)：48-50
[5] 张庆辉、夏川、开吴珍．天然彩色棉现状及未来发展趋势．天津纺织科技，2002，40(3)：2-5
[6] 唐志荣、陈广利．天然彩色棉发展中存在的问题及对策．中国棉花，2004，31(1)：2-4
[7] 余序芬等．纺织材料实验技术．北京：中国纺织出版社，2004
[8] 柳世龙．提高纬编针织物尺寸稳定性的探讨．上海纺织科技，2001，29(4)：39-40
[9] 冯涣然．大豆蛋白针织物尺寸稳定性研究．东华大学学位论文，2003
[10] E. Tompkin. The Science of Knitting, John Willey&Sons, New York, 1914
[11] P. J. D oyle. J. Text. Inst, 1953, 44: 561
[12] D. L . Munden. J. Text. Inst, 1959, 50: 4480
[13] R. Postle And D. L. Munden. J. Text Inst, 1967, 58(8): 329-351
[14] W. E. Shinn, Text. Res. J, 1955, 25: 2700
[15] J. Chamblain, Hosieery Yarn And Fabrics, 1949, (2): 106-108
[16] F. T. Peirce, Text. Res. J, 1947, (17): 123
[17] G. A. V. Leaf. And D. L. Munden, H. A. IK. A., Production Note, 1956, (8)
[18] H. M. Fletcher And S. H. Roberts. Text. Res. J, 1952, (22): 84
[19] H. M. Fletcher And S. H. Roberts. Text. Res. J, 1952, (23): 87
[20] B. Norwick, Paper Presented At the 36th Annal Meeting OF The Textile Research Institute, New York, 1966, (3): 30
[21] A. Vekassay. actu. tech. Acael. Sci. Hung, 1960, (31): 690
[22] T. S . Nutting. And G. A. V. Leaf, J. Text. Inst, 1963, (54): 745
[23] A. E. Love, The Mathematical Theory of Elasticity, Cambridge University Press, Chambridge, 1970
[24] G. A. V. Leaf., A Property of i Buckled Elastic Rod. Brit. J. Apple Phys, 1958, (9): 2
[25] F. T. Peirce, J. Text. Inst, 1973, (28): 73
[26] B. Ologfson., J. Text. Inst., 1954, (55): 541
[27] R. Postle And D. L. Munden., J. Text. Inst., 1967, 8, 58, 352-365
[28] D. L. Munden., Knitting Group Conference At Buxton On8th, 1958, 4
[29] Michzel Tyndall R, Donald Bailey L, Kelly Tuck L. Shrinkage Control of Cotton Knits by Mechanical Techniques. TCC, 1990, (22): 19-22
[30] 邱冠雄．棉针织物缩水率测试的新方法．纺织学报，1989，(9)：32-34
[31] 姚穆等．纺织材料学．北京：中国纺织出版社，1980
[32] 余序芬等．纺织材料实验技术．北京：中国纺织出版社，2004
[33] Knit Time, 1987, 13-18
[34] T. S. Nutting and G. A. V Leaf. Text., 1964, 55: 45
[35] Centre De Recherches De La Bonneterie, Bull Inst. Text. France, 1964, 18: 421
[36] 温宇、吴德皋、吴林霞、潭永忠．超细涤纶纤维纺纱研究．广西纺织科技，1998，27(1)：7-10
[37] 朱碧红．超细涤纶／棉仿丝绸织物的开发．纺织导报，2002，(6)：77-78
[38] 刘雪峥、李鸿玉、厉重先．棉织物纤维素酶促进剂后处理的研究．北京联合大学学报(自然科学版)，2003，17(3)：44-47
[39] 龙德树、杨传强、胡萍、吴学君．天然彩棉针织物生物酶整理工艺质量分析．印染，2004，(6)：7-9
[40] 张镁．天然彩棉复合生物酶精练．印染，2003，(增刊)：36-41)
[41] 周文龙．酶在纺织中的应用．北京：中国纺织出版社，2002：153-156、272-274
[42] 李群、赵昔慧．酶在纺织印染工业中的应用．北京：化学工业出版社．2006．4：15-17
[43] 冯愈、伍建国、汪南方．影响天然彩棉色变及服用性能的工艺探讨．纺织科技进展，2006(2)：46-48
[44] 许兰杰．天然彩棉的色度分析．丹东纺专学报．2004，11(4)：66-67，47