纱线结构形态与彩棉针织物服用性能相关性研究
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摘要
纺织产品与人们的生活密切相关。纺织生产加工过程中的各种化学品不仅对人体健康有害,而且对生态环境的影响也很大。因此,无需染色的天然彩色棉的开发利用已引起世界各主要产棉国的充分重视,有关彩棉纤维的研究和产品开发己成为当前纺织产业的热点之一。但是天然彩棉纤维的品质较白棉差,使得纺织加工后的产品服用性能受到了很大的影响。尤其是目前我国主要采用传统环锭纺技术加工天然彩色棉,所加工的彩棉纱线毛羽和棉结多,制成的面料光洁度差、起球性严重,一定程度上限制了彩棉新产品的开发。消费者普遍反映:彩棉针织服装的手感柔而不挺,保形性差。因此,改善彩棉针织面料的服用性能,尤其是高比例彩棉针织面料的服用性能,对于开发高档彩棉针织服装具有重要的现实意义。
课题的主要内容由以下三部分组成。
首先,对目前常用的环锭纺、转杯纺、喷气纺和喷气涡流纺四种纺纱加工技术作了较为全面的调研。在充分了解各类纺纱技术的发展概况、成纱机理、纱线结构及应用领域的情况下,意识到纺纱加工工艺和纱线结构形态是影响产品服用性能的重要因素。因此,从纱线结构形态入手,是改善彩棉针织物服用性能的有效途径之一。
接着,课题采用以上四种纺纱加工技术,分别纺制彩棉/白棉混纺的高比例(80/20)和低比例(15/85)纱,共16个品种。通过对各品种纱线的基本性能,包括力学性能、捻度、毛羽、条干不匀、摩擦性及膨松性等的测试和对比,发现虽然环锭纱的强伸性优于喷气纱、转杯纱和喷气涡流纱三种新型纱,但新型纱的毛羽普遍比环锭纱少,尤其是有害毛羽数(>3mm)明显减少,其中喷气涡流纱几乎为0;虽然环锭纱条干比新型纱好,但中高支喷气涡流纱的粗节与棉结比环锭纱少。在三类新型纱中,喷气涡流纱的条干和强伸性均优于喷气纱和转杯纱,且强力接近于环锭纱。因此,采用喷气涡流纺技术加工天然彩色棉纤维,以提高彩棉针织面料的服用性能成为本课题的重点。
最后,课题在前阶段研究的基础上,对各类纱线织制的针织面料作了较为详细的性能测试和分析。此阶段的研究工作涉及到织物组织、设备选用,前处理工艺及织物性能测试与评价等多方面的内容。织物性能测试与分析包括织物的强伸性、耐磨性、抗起毛起球性、抗皱性、尺寸稳定性、表面光洁性、刚柔性、悬垂性、透气性以及透湿性等。通过织物性能对比,发现喷气涡流纱彩棉针织物较之其他织物具有表面光洁,绒毛少而短,抗弯刚度大,手感挺括等优点,同时还具有较好的耐磨性、抗起毛起球性、折皱回复性和透气透湿性。虽然喷气涡流纱的强力略低于环锭纱,但并不影响其加工和服用。
论文在理论研究的基础上,注重实践性和创新性。课题的创新之处在于采用新型的纺纱技术加工天然彩棉纱。在理论研究中,通过纱线结构的对比分析,研究了纱线结构形态与彩棉针织物服用性能的相关性;在测试分析中,通过纱线和织物的全面性能对比分析,最终得出了采用喷气涡流纺加工技术是提高高比例彩棉针织面料服用性能,尤其是表面光洁性、硬挺性和保形性的有效途径这一可信结论。论文的研究内容可为开发高档彩棉针织服装产品提供参考。
Textile product is correlative to people's life. Different kinds of chemical from textile producing process are harmful to people as well as to the environment. So countries which mainly produce cotton attach much importance to do research on colored cotton. Research on colored cotton fibre and textile products have become a heat topic. However, the quality of colored cotton is worse than white cotton, which affects wear behaviors of colored cotton fabric. What's more, colored cotton yarn spun by traditional Ring Spinning technic has more hairiness and neps. Fabric made of such yarn is not glabrous and the pilling resistance of the fabric is worse, which confines the development of new colored cotton product to a certain extent. Universally, consumers say that the handle of colored cotton knitwear is too much soft and the keeping formation is not good. In order to develop a high added value colored cotton knitwear, it is very important to improve the wear behaviors of colored cotton knitting fabric, especially the one with high proportion colored cotton fibre.
The thesis mainly consisted of three parts.
Firstly, four kinds of different spinning systems such as Ring Spinning(RS)、Rotor Spinning(OE)、Air-Jet Spinning (MJS) and Jet-Vortex Spinning(MVS) were investigated roundly somewhat. Spinning process technics and yarn structure were the important factors to affect fabric wear behaviors, which was realized after having known the development and spinning mechanism of four kinds of different spinning systems as well as the their corresponding yarn structures and application fields. Thus, embarking on yarn structure was one of effective ways to improve the wear behaviors of colored cotton knitted fabric.
Secondly, two blended yarns of colored cotton/white cotton 80/20 and 15/85 were spun by those four kinds of spinning systems. It aggregated 16 sorts of yarns. The yarns' essential performances such as mechanical property, twist, yarn hairiness, yarn evenness, friction property and looseness were tested and compared. The results showed that the RS yarn's strength and elongation were better than those of MJS yarn、OE yarn and MVS yarn. However, the hairiness of the new pattern yarns were less than RS yarn, especially harmful hairiness (>3mm)of them reduced distinctly, and it was about zero level for MVS yarn. Although the evenness of RS yarn was better than the others, MVS yarn had less thick places and neps in middle and high yarn counts than RS yarn. With regard to those three new pattern yarns, MVS yarn showed better strength and elongation than MJS yarn and OE yarn, and its strength was close to RS yarn. Therefore, using Jet-Vortex Spinning technic to spin colored cotton fibre in order to improve the wear behaviors of colored cotton knitted fabric was this thesis important part.
Finally, based on former research, performances of knitted fabric made of all kinds of yarns were tested and analyzed in the thesis. This part included the selection of fabric stitch and knitting machine, the determination of pretreatment technics as well as the test and analysis of fabric performances which involved strength and elongation, abrasive resistance, pilling resistance, crease resistance, dimension stability, surface quality, bending rigidity, air permeability and humidity penetration. With contrast of fabric performances, the results indicated that colored cotton fabric made of MVS yarn was more glabrous, and showed greater bending rigidity and handing stiffness performance than the other fabrics. The behaviors of the knitted fabrics made of MVS yarns such as abrasive resistance, pilling resistance, crease recovery, air permeability and humidity penetration were better too. Although the strength of MVS yarn was a little lower than RS yarn, which didn't affect MVS yarn knitting process and the wear behaviors of the fabric.
The thesis was based on theory research and emphasized on practice and innovation. The innovation of this thesis was to use new spinning system technic to manufacture colored cotton yarn. On the theory research aspect, correlation between yarn structures and wear behaviors of colored cotton knitted fabrics were studied by contrast and analysis of different kinds of yarn structures. On test and analysis part, it reached a conclusion that Jet-Vortex Spinning technic was an effective way to improve the wear behaviors of colored cotton knitted fabric with high proportion colored cotton fibre, especially on the fabric's surface glabrousness, handling stiffness and keeping formation. The research content of this thesis would provide reference for developing top grade colored cotton knitwear product.
课题的主要内容由以下三部分组成。
首先,对目前常用的环锭纺、转杯纺、喷气纺和喷气涡流纺四种纺纱加工技术作了较为全面的调研。在充分了解各类纺纱技术的发展概况、成纱机理、纱线结构及应用领域的情况下,意识到纺纱加工工艺和纱线结构形态是影响产品服用性能的重要因素。因此,从纱线结构形态入手,是改善彩棉针织物服用性能的有效途径之一。
接着,课题采用以上四种纺纱加工技术,分别纺制彩棉/白棉混纺的高比例(80/20)和低比例(15/85)纱,共16个品种。通过对各品种纱线的基本性能,包括力学性能、捻度、毛羽、条干不匀、摩擦性及膨松性等的测试和对比,发现虽然环锭纱的强伸性优于喷气纱、转杯纱和喷气涡流纱三种新型纱,但新型纱的毛羽普遍比环锭纱少,尤其是有害毛羽数(>3mm)明显减少,其中喷气涡流纱几乎为0;虽然环锭纱条干比新型纱好,但中高支喷气涡流纱的粗节与棉结比环锭纱少。在三类新型纱中,喷气涡流纱的条干和强伸性均优于喷气纱和转杯纱,且强力接近于环锭纱。因此,采用喷气涡流纺技术加工天然彩色棉纤维,以提高彩棉针织面料的服用性能成为本课题的重点。
最后,课题在前阶段研究的基础上,对各类纱线织制的针织面料作了较为详细的性能测试和分析。此阶段的研究工作涉及到织物组织、设备选用,前处理工艺及织物性能测试与评价等多方面的内容。织物性能测试与分析包括织物的强伸性、耐磨性、抗起毛起球性、抗皱性、尺寸稳定性、表面光洁性、刚柔性、悬垂性、透气性以及透湿性等。通过织物性能对比,发现喷气涡流纱彩棉针织物较之其他织物具有表面光洁,绒毛少而短,抗弯刚度大,手感挺括等优点,同时还具有较好的耐磨性、抗起毛起球性、折皱回复性和透气透湿性。虽然喷气涡流纱的强力略低于环锭纱,但并不影响其加工和服用。
论文在理论研究的基础上,注重实践性和创新性。课题的创新之处在于采用新型的纺纱技术加工天然彩棉纱。在理论研究中,通过纱线结构的对比分析,研究了纱线结构形态与彩棉针织物服用性能的相关性;在测试分析中,通过纱线和织物的全面性能对比分析,最终得出了采用喷气涡流纺加工技术是提高高比例彩棉针织面料服用性能,尤其是表面光洁性、硬挺性和保形性的有效途径这一可信结论。论文的研究内容可为开发高档彩棉针织服装产品提供参考。
Textile product is correlative to people's life. Different kinds of chemical from textile producing process are harmful to people as well as to the environment. So countries which mainly produce cotton attach much importance to do research on colored cotton. Research on colored cotton fibre and textile products have become a heat topic. However, the quality of colored cotton is worse than white cotton, which affects wear behaviors of colored cotton fabric. What's more, colored cotton yarn spun by traditional Ring Spinning technic has more hairiness and neps. Fabric made of such yarn is not glabrous and the pilling resistance of the fabric is worse, which confines the development of new colored cotton product to a certain extent. Universally, consumers say that the handle of colored cotton knitwear is too much soft and the keeping formation is not good. In order to develop a high added value colored cotton knitwear, it is very important to improve the wear behaviors of colored cotton knitting fabric, especially the one with high proportion colored cotton fibre.
The thesis mainly consisted of three parts.
Firstly, four kinds of different spinning systems such as Ring Spinning(RS)、Rotor Spinning(OE)、Air-Jet Spinning (MJS) and Jet-Vortex Spinning(MVS) were investigated roundly somewhat. Spinning process technics and yarn structure were the important factors to affect fabric wear behaviors, which was realized after having known the development and spinning mechanism of four kinds of different spinning systems as well as the their corresponding yarn structures and application fields. Thus, embarking on yarn structure was one of effective ways to improve the wear behaviors of colored cotton knitted fabric.
Secondly, two blended yarns of colored cotton/white cotton 80/20 and 15/85 were spun by those four kinds of spinning systems. It aggregated 16 sorts of yarns. The yarns' essential performances such as mechanical property, twist, yarn hairiness, yarn evenness, friction property and looseness were tested and compared. The results showed that the RS yarn's strength and elongation were better than those of MJS yarn、OE yarn and MVS yarn. However, the hairiness of the new pattern yarns were less than RS yarn, especially harmful hairiness (>3mm)of them reduced distinctly, and it was about zero level for MVS yarn. Although the evenness of RS yarn was better than the others, MVS yarn had less thick places and neps in middle and high yarn counts than RS yarn. With regard to those three new pattern yarns, MVS yarn showed better strength and elongation than MJS yarn and OE yarn, and its strength was close to RS yarn. Therefore, using Jet-Vortex Spinning technic to spin colored cotton fibre in order to improve the wear behaviors of colored cotton knitted fabric was this thesis important part.
Finally, based on former research, performances of knitted fabric made of all kinds of yarns were tested and analyzed in the thesis. This part included the selection of fabric stitch and knitting machine, the determination of pretreatment technics as well as the test and analysis of fabric performances which involved strength and elongation, abrasive resistance, pilling resistance, crease resistance, dimension stability, surface quality, bending rigidity, air permeability and humidity penetration. With contrast of fabric performances, the results indicated that colored cotton fabric made of MVS yarn was more glabrous, and showed greater bending rigidity and handing stiffness performance than the other fabrics. The behaviors of the knitted fabrics made of MVS yarns such as abrasive resistance, pilling resistance, crease recovery, air permeability and humidity penetration were better too. Although the strength of MVS yarn was a little lower than RS yarn, which didn't affect MVS yarn knitting process and the wear behaviors of the fabric.
The thesis was based on theory research and emphasized on practice and innovation. The innovation of this thesis was to use new spinning system technic to manufacture colored cotton yarn. On the theory research aspect, correlation between yarn structures and wear behaviors of colored cotton knitted fabrics were studied by contrast and analysis of different kinds of yarn structures. On test and analysis part, it reached a conclusion that Jet-Vortex Spinning technic was an effective way to improve the wear behaviors of colored cotton knitted fabric with high proportion colored cotton fibre, especially on the fabric's surface glabrousness, handling stiffness and keeping formation. The research content of this thesis would provide reference for developing top grade colored cotton knitwear product.
引文
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