服装的人性化设计
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摘要
服装设计是以人性为出发点的，因此，在设计中必须体现“以人为本，以人为先”的原则。在人与服装、环境的关系中，生理和心理因素的作用常常是一致的，但又有各自的特殊性。生理因素主要是指人体结构对服装结构和功能性的影响；心理因素包含了文化、审美、习俗、习惯、情感等因素和随机性。因此，在服装设计中要综合考虑人的生理及心理因素。
经过20多年的发展，尽管我国已成为世界上最大的服装生产和消费国，但是由于很多企业盲目追求一时的轰动效应和经济效益，造成品牌之间竞争混乱，服装产品档次低下，服装企业与消费者之间缺乏沟通和联系。因此，坚持“以人为本”的设计理念，创建国际知名品牌，将是今后中国服装业为之奋斗的目标。
本文共分三部分来论述服装的人性化设计这一课题。第一部分通过论述人、环境、服装的相互关系，以及“以人为本”服装设计的历史，结合我国服装工业发展的现状，提出服装人性化设计的必要性；第二部分主要论述服装人性化设计的生理因素。通过分析人体静动势形态与服装结构及功能性的关系，论述了人体因素对服装结构和造型的影响，这是“以人为本”服装设计理论的基础。同时，通过对“面料引导设计”这一设计理念的论述，强调面料，作为服装人性化设计的载体，在服装造型风格设计及功能性设计中的重要作用，并对新材料的开发和应用提出了更高的要求；第三部分主要论述服装人性化设计的心理因素。通过分析色彩的情感、季节性、知觉感情等特征，从而达到人与服装色彩整体和谐的目的。同时，分析国内外知名品牌及顶级设计师如何在设计及经营上最大限度地体现人性化设计的理念，希望为中国服装业的发展提供借鉴。
未来服装时尚主要体现在：表现健美人体；追求舒适感觉；强调绿色环保；显示科技内涵；突出文化品位；具备个性特色。因此，服装企业只有确定“以人为本”的设计理念，明确发展方向，才能在未来的国际市场上立于不败之地。
As garment design sees humanity as its starting-point, it must embody the principle of "humanism". In man's relations with garment and environment, physiological and psychological roles are usually identical, however, meanwhile, they have their respective special property. Physiological factors mainly refers to the influence of man's physical structure on garment's structure and function. While psychological factors are involved in cultural, aesthetic, customary, habitual, emotional, elements and flexibility, etc. Therefore, both physiological and psychological factors must be taken into account in garment design.
China has ranked the first country in terms of garment production and consumption through 20 years development ,but, due to many enterprises' pursue for temporary "sensational effect" and economic profits ,there exists some thorny problems such as disorderly conditions of brand communication with consumers, etc. As a result, adhering to the "humanism" theory and setting up excellent international brands will be a persistent goal of China's garment trade in the near future.
The paper consists of 3 parts to set forth the subject of humanized design of garment. Part One discusses man's relations with environment and garment as well as the history of humanized garment design. Furthermore, combining with China's present situation of garment industry's development, it puts forward the necessity of humanized garment design. Part Two , discusses physiological factors of humanized design of garment, through analysis of connections between man's static/dynamic pattern and clothes structure and function, expounds shape factor's influence on clothes structure , which has laid theoretical foundation for the principle of "humanism". Furthermore, it is stressed, by means of "Material Leads Design" theory, that material carrier of humanized garment design, plays an essential part in garment's pattern and style design. What's more, higher request for new material development and use is proposed as well, In Part Three , mostly discusses psychological factors of humanized garment design, explain
s emotions, seasons and perceptive feeling conveyed by various colors, so that man can be in harmonious with clothes color on the whole, at the same time, through talks of famous national and international brands and the way that top designers, to the largest degree, reflect "humanism" theory in their design and management, hoping to prepare the way for development of China's garment industry.
The future fashion will attach importance on showing vigorous and graceful body ,
seeking comfortable feeling, advocating Green Environment, manifesting technological intension, emphasizing cultural taste and possessing personality characteristics, In conclusion, in order to stand firmly in the international market, China's garment industry has no other choice but to fix the "humanism" design theory and make clear its development direction.
经过20多年的发展，尽管我国已成为世界上最大的服装生产和消费国，但是由于很多企业盲目追求一时的轰动效应和经济效益，造成品牌之间竞争混乱，服装产品档次低下，服装企业与消费者之间缺乏沟通和联系。因此，坚持“以人为本”的设计理念，创建国际知名品牌，将是今后中国服装业为之奋斗的目标。
本文共分三部分来论述服装的人性化设计这一课题。第一部分通过论述人、环境、服装的相互关系，以及“以人为本”服装设计的历史，结合我国服装工业发展的现状，提出服装人性化设计的必要性；第二部分主要论述服装人性化设计的生理因素。通过分析人体静动势形态与服装结构及功能性的关系，论述了人体因素对服装结构和造型的影响，这是“以人为本”服装设计理论的基础。同时，通过对“面料引导设计”这一设计理念的论述，强调面料，作为服装人性化设计的载体，在服装造型风格设计及功能性设计中的重要作用，并对新材料的开发和应用提出了更高的要求；第三部分主要论述服装人性化设计的心理因素。通过分析色彩的情感、季节性、知觉感情等特征，从而达到人与服装色彩整体和谐的目的。同时，分析国内外知名品牌及顶级设计师如何在设计及经营上最大限度地体现人性化设计的理念，希望为中国服装业的发展提供借鉴。
未来服装时尚主要体现在：表现健美人体；追求舒适感觉；强调绿色环保；显示科技内涵；突出文化品位；具备个性特色。因此，服装企业只有确定“以人为本”的设计理念，明确发展方向，才能在未来的国际市场上立于不败之地。
As garment design sees humanity as its starting-point, it must embody the principle of "humanism". In man's relations with garment and environment, physiological and psychological roles are usually identical, however, meanwhile, they have their respective special property. Physiological factors mainly refers to the influence of man's physical structure on garment's structure and function. While psychological factors are involved in cultural, aesthetic, customary, habitual, emotional, elements and flexibility, etc. Therefore, both physiological and psychological factors must be taken into account in garment design.
China has ranked the first country in terms of garment production and consumption through 20 years development ,but, due to many enterprises' pursue for temporary "sensational effect" and economic profits ,there exists some thorny problems such as disorderly conditions of brand communication with consumers, etc. As a result, adhering to the "humanism" theory and setting up excellent international brands will be a persistent goal of China's garment trade in the near future.
The paper consists of 3 parts to set forth the subject of humanized design of garment. Part One discusses man's relations with environment and garment as well as the history of humanized garment design. Furthermore, combining with China's present situation of garment industry's development, it puts forward the necessity of humanized garment design. Part Two , discusses physiological factors of humanized design of garment, through analysis of connections between man's static/dynamic pattern and clothes structure and function, expounds shape factor's influence on clothes structure , which has laid theoretical foundation for the principle of "humanism". Furthermore, it is stressed, by means of "Material Leads Design" theory, that material carrier of humanized garment design, plays an essential part in garment's pattern and style design. What's more, higher request for new material development and use is proposed as well, In Part Three , mostly discusses psychological factors of humanized garment design, explain
s emotions, seasons and perceptive feeling conveyed by various colors, so that man can be in harmonious with clothes color on the whole, at the same time, through talks of famous national and international brands and the way that top designers, to the largest degree, reflect "humanism" theory in their design and management, hoping to prepare the way for development of China's garment industry.
The future fashion will attach importance on showing vigorous and graceful body ,
seeking comfortable feeling, advocating Green Environment, manifesting technological intension, emphasizing cultural taste and possessing personality characteristics, In conclusion, in order to stand firmly in the international market, China's garment industry has no other choice but to fix the "humanism" design theory and make clear its development direction.
引文
(1) 珍妮弗．克雷克著，舒允中译，《时装的面貌》 中央编译出版社 2000．3
(2) 中泽愈 著，袁观洛译，《人体与服装》 中国纺织出版社 2000
(3) 王受之 著， 《世界时装史》 中国青年出版社 2002．9
(4) 余强 著， 《服装设计概论》 西南师范大学出版社 2002
(5) 李当歧 著， 《服装学概论》 高等教育出版社 1995
(6) 刘瑞璞 著， 《女装纸样设计原理与技巧》 中国纺织出版社 1991
(7) 冯旭敏 马存义 编译， 《文化服装讲座》 中国轻工业出版社 2001．1
(8) 陈东生 著，《服装卫生学》 中国纺织出版社 2000．9
(9) 刘元风 著，《服装设计学》 高等教育出版社 1997．7
(10) 白嘉良 选择正确的中国原型之路 《服装科技》 2000．2
(11) 王霞 从人体形态到服装结构 《服装科技》 2000．5
(12) 熊玛俐 服装烘托人体的变化 《服装科技》 2000．6
(13) 李超德 中国加入WTO与服装业的绿色生态设计 《东华大学学报》 2002．1
(14) 俊字 高科技面料服装 《中国服装)) 2002．11
(15) 史林 《高级时装概论》 中国纺织出版社 2002．4
(16) http://www.efu.com.cn
(2) 中泽愈 著，袁观洛译，《人体与服装》 中国纺织出版社 2000
(3) 王受之 著， 《世界时装史》 中国青年出版社 2002．9
(4) 余强 著， 《服装设计概论》 西南师范大学出版社 2002
(5) 李当歧 著， 《服装学概论》 高等教育出版社 1995
(6) 刘瑞璞 著， 《女装纸样设计原理与技巧》 中国纺织出版社 1991
(7) 冯旭敏 马存义 编译， 《文化服装讲座》 中国轻工业出版社 2001．1
(8) 陈东生 著，《服装卫生学》 中国纺织出版社 2000．9
(9) 刘元风 著，《服装设计学》 高等教育出版社 1997．7
(10) 白嘉良 选择正确的中国原型之路 《服装科技》 2000．2
(11) 王霞 从人体形态到服装结构 《服装科技》 2000．5
(12) 熊玛俐 服装烘托人体的变化 《服装科技》 2000．6
(13) 李超德 中国加入WTO与服装业的绿色生态设计 《东华大学学报》 2002．1
(14) 俊字 高科技面料服装 《中国服装)) 2002．11
(15) 史林 《高级时装概论》 中国纺织出版社 2002．4
(16) http://www.efu.com.cn