厦门湾常风浪场数值模拟研究
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摘要
深水区的波浪在向近区岸传播的过程中,由于受到水深地形变化、能量耗散、底摩擦、水流等因素的作用,发生反射、折射、绕射、波浪破碎、浅水变形和非线性效应等现象。波浪是港口海岸工程设计中最为重要的动力因素之一,与水流的相互作用引起海底泥沙输运,不仅影响了近岸的环境变化,对浅海生产作业和海岸工程建设规划(如港口建设、河口治理、岸滩防护等)、海上输运、水产养殖、滨海企业和海洋旅游等等的建设发展也造成了很大影响。随着沿海地区社会经济的不断发展,人类海岸地活动的日趋频繁,沿海工程项目的数量越来越多,投资规模越来越大,工程项目的分险性也越来越引起人们的高度重视,这些都对近岸波浪等海洋环境要素的精确预测提出了更高的要求。
本文利用SWAN(Simulating Wave Nearshore)海浪模式为基础构筑厦门湾浅海波浪数值计算模式。首先设计实验方案,研究理想风场、潮位的变化、理想潮流场对波浪传播的影响,以反映风场、水深变浅导致的能量耗散以及潮位潮流场的变化对近岸波浪传播的影响。其次,将模型应用于台湾海峡风浪的数值计算,模拟了常风状态下台湾海峡内风浪的成长和传播过程,选取模拟结果作为厦门湾波浪场的模拟计算中的边界条件。最后,利用SWAN波浪模型,在厦门湾的潮流场模型计算的基础上选取7月份与10月的多年月平均风场作为盛行季风计算风场,在考虑风能量输入、白浪效应、水深诱导的波浪破碎、底摩擦、波—波相互作用的等物理作用上,计算厦门湾在潮流作用下的风浪场的成长和传播变化过程,计算结果表明:金门岛以北,受水深以及金门岛本身的阻挡影响,波高相对较小。厦门岛内侧,鼓浪屿以北水深相对较浅,属于掩蔽条件较好的区域,总体波高较小;潮位对厦门湾波浪成长的影响在0.03m以下。潮流对波浪的成长影响比较大:当潮流流向与波浪传播方向相同时,潮流减缓了波浪的成长,使得波高变小。当潮流流向与波浪传播方向相反的时候,潮流大大加速了波浪的成长,波高变大。7月份厦门湾的波浪在潮流作用下最大增幅为0.13m,最大减幅为0.08m;10月份厦门湾的波浪在潮流作用下,最大增幅为0.08m,最大减幅为0.12m。
When wave propagate the shallow area from deepwater, many phenomena will occur due to the different effect of submarine topography, energy dissipate, bottom friction and current etc, such as reflection, refraction, diffraction, wave breaking, shoaling transformation , non-linearity wave-wave interaction and so on. Since the sediment will be transferred by interaction with tide, wave is one of the most important hydrodynamic factors of harbor engineering. Wave not only change the environment of shallow sea, as well as the coastal production, construction planning, marine transportation, fishery, seaside enterprises, marine tourism and so on. While the development of economy and more and more human activity, ocean engineering, engineering venture, a high quality of the wave forecast is required.
This paper used SWAN (Simulating Wave Nearshore) as a mode of numerical simulation to build the Xiamen Bay project. At first, we designed an experimentation plan to study the wind field, water level and tidal current that effect upon the wave growth and propagation, in order to responses the most important influence of depth-induced dissipation, current field and water level to the wave growth and propagation. Second, use SWAN model to simulate the wave field of Taiwan Strait , put the numeral results in use as boundary condition of Xiamen Bay. At last, use the tide simulation results of Xiamen Bay as the initial condition and the waves simulation results of the Taiwan Strait as boundary condition, select the monthly mean wind force in July and the one in October input to Xiamen Bay, fully consider the power input, white capping dissipation, wave breaking, bottom friction and nonlinear wave-wave interaction, we use the SWAN model to simulate the wave field of Xiamen Bay. The result shows as below:
First, the height of wave in the northland of Jinmen Island is low because of depth and the blockade of Island.
Second, the height of wave in the inboard Xiamen Island is low because of the lee.
Third, tidal current is the important influence to the growth of wave.
本文利用SWAN(Simulating Wave Nearshore)海浪模式为基础构筑厦门湾浅海波浪数值计算模式。首先设计实验方案,研究理想风场、潮位的变化、理想潮流场对波浪传播的影响,以反映风场、水深变浅导致的能量耗散以及潮位潮流场的变化对近岸波浪传播的影响。其次,将模型应用于台湾海峡风浪的数值计算,模拟了常风状态下台湾海峡内风浪的成长和传播过程,选取模拟结果作为厦门湾波浪场的模拟计算中的边界条件。最后,利用SWAN波浪模型,在厦门湾的潮流场模型计算的基础上选取7月份与10月的多年月平均风场作为盛行季风计算风场,在考虑风能量输入、白浪效应、水深诱导的波浪破碎、底摩擦、波—波相互作用的等物理作用上,计算厦门湾在潮流作用下的风浪场的成长和传播变化过程,计算结果表明:金门岛以北,受水深以及金门岛本身的阻挡影响,波高相对较小。厦门岛内侧,鼓浪屿以北水深相对较浅,属于掩蔽条件较好的区域,总体波高较小;潮位对厦门湾波浪成长的影响在0.03m以下。潮流对波浪的成长影响比较大:当潮流流向与波浪传播方向相同时,潮流减缓了波浪的成长,使得波高变小。当潮流流向与波浪传播方向相反的时候,潮流大大加速了波浪的成长,波高变大。7月份厦门湾的波浪在潮流作用下最大增幅为0.13m,最大减幅为0.08m;10月份厦门湾的波浪在潮流作用下,最大增幅为0.08m,最大减幅为0.12m。
When wave propagate the shallow area from deepwater, many phenomena will occur due to the different effect of submarine topography, energy dissipate, bottom friction and current etc, such as reflection, refraction, diffraction, wave breaking, shoaling transformation , non-linearity wave-wave interaction and so on. Since the sediment will be transferred by interaction with tide, wave is one of the most important hydrodynamic factors of harbor engineering. Wave not only change the environment of shallow sea, as well as the coastal production, construction planning, marine transportation, fishery, seaside enterprises, marine tourism and so on. While the development of economy and more and more human activity, ocean engineering, engineering venture, a high quality of the wave forecast is required.
This paper used SWAN (Simulating Wave Nearshore) as a mode of numerical simulation to build the Xiamen Bay project. At first, we designed an experimentation plan to study the wind field, water level and tidal current that effect upon the wave growth and propagation, in order to responses the most important influence of depth-induced dissipation, current field and water level to the wave growth and propagation. Second, use SWAN model to simulate the wave field of Taiwan Strait , put the numeral results in use as boundary condition of Xiamen Bay. At last, use the tide simulation results of Xiamen Bay as the initial condition and the waves simulation results of the Taiwan Strait as boundary condition, select the monthly mean wind force in July and the one in October input to Xiamen Bay, fully consider the power input, white capping dissipation, wave breaking, bottom friction and nonlinear wave-wave interaction, we use the SWAN model to simulate the wave field of Xiamen Bay. The result shows as below:
First, the height of wave in the northland of Jinmen Island is low because of depth and the blockade of Island.
Second, the height of wave in the inboard Xiamen Island is low because of the lee.
Third, tidal current is the important influence to the growth of wave.
引文
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[7]RisRC,HolthuijsenLH,BooijN.A Spectral Model for Waves in the Nearshore Zone[J].CoastalEngineering,1994,68-78.
[8]李瑞杰.考虑非线性弥散影响的波浪变形数学模型[J].海洋学报,2001,23(1):102-108.
[9]李瑞杰,王爱群,王厚杰.波浪在浅水传播中的弱非线性效应[J].海洋工程,2000,18(3):30-38.
[10]严以新.潮汐河口地区的波流相互作用的数学模型[J].海洋工程,1989,7(3):47-55.
[11]Goda YA.Synthesis of Breaker Indices[J].Trans.Of ASCE.1970,2(part2.):227-229.
[12]高学平,曾广冬,张亚.不规则波数值水槽的造波和阻尼消波[J].海洋学报,2002,24(2):127-132.
[13]Peregrine D H.Long wave on a beach[J].J.Fluid Mech.,1965,27(4):815-827.
[14]Radder A C.On the parabolic equation method for water-wave propagation[J].J.Fluid mech.,1979,(1):159-176.
[15]Kirby J T.A general wave equation for wave over rippled beds[J].J.Fluid Mech.,1986,162:171-186.
[16]Kirby J T,Dalrymple R A.An approximant model for nonlinear dispersion in monochromatic wave propagation models[J].Coastal Engineering,1987,9:545-561.
[17]Zhao Y,Anastasiou K.Econnomical random wave propagation modeling taking into account nonlinear amplitude dispersion[J].Coastal Engineering,1993,20:59-83.
[18]Nadaoka K,Beji S,Nakagawa Y.A fully-Dispersive nonlinear wave model and its numerical solution[A].In:Proc 24th Int Conf Coastal Engineering[C].Kobe,Japan,New York:ASCE,1994,427-441.
[19]Isobe M.Time-dependent mild-slope equation for random waves[A].In:Proc 24th Int Conf Coastal Engineering[C].Kobe,Japan,New York:ASCE,1994,285-299.
[20]Ris R C,Holthuijsen L H,Booij N.A Spectral Model for Waves in the near shore Zone[J].Coastal Engineering,1994,68-78.
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