女装合体袖配袖研究
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摘要
当今社会,人们在选购服装时不仅要求服装能体现个性化特征,而且对其美观舒适性的要求也越来越高。但是,通过调研服装企业发现,在实际的制板岗位,样板师一般都是依靠经验制板,其应变能力较薄弱,缺乏对板型的功能舒适性与造型美观性的研究;在样板设计中,合体袖的结构设计一直是一项难以解决的技术难题。
针对以上的产业状况,本课题对女装合体袖的配袖做了系统的研究。首先,课题分析了影响袖子结构的人体静、动态体型特征,完成了人体上肢在做常规动作时的角度测量,为袖子结构设计中松量设置和舒适性评价提供了科学的参照依据。其次,本课题比较研究了几种典型的袖子结构设计方法:日本文化式原型配袖法、基样配袖法及比例配袖法。通过对这几种方法的各控制部位数据及公式进行分析比较,得出各自的数据差异。同时也指出了三种方法共同的局限性。
基于以上几种配袖方法的局限性,本课题提出了一种新的配袖方法——轴线配袖法,并分析了该配袖法如何实现袖窿与袖山的对位吻合及吃势量的控制。通过论述袖子结构的主要影响因素,确定了合体袖的袖山高与吃势量的取值范围,并设计了实验,制作了15件实验样衣。通过对样衣样板关键部位数据的测量,用数学理论对变量进行回归分析,得出总吃势与袖山高和袖窿弧线增量的回归方程。
再者,建立了主观评价体系,确定了静态美观性与动态舒适性的评价指标与内容,并对样衣做了美观性与舒适性的评价。通过比较分析评价结果,得出兼具美观性与舒适性的袖子结构的袖山高取值。
最后,通过利用以上研究成果,以轴线配袖法配置五个不同尺码(150/76A、155/80A、160/84A、165/88A、170/92A)服装的袖子样板并试样,通过比较成衣照片与样板数据,验证了轴线配袖法及以上实验结果的合理性和实用性,为合体袖结构设计提供一定的理论借鉴。
Esthetics and comfort is the basic of selecting clothes in people’s everyday life. But, it is very pity that some clothes patterns are made by makers experience or theory study, according to our investigation and study, these patterns lack of research about esthetics in styles and comfort in constructions, especially in deal with the fit sleeves. It becomes a technical problem.
On account of this status, this dissertation focuses on the women’s fit sleeves research. The main research contents and results are the following:
Firstly, the dissertation analyzes human’s physical personalities which influence the sleeves constructions, studies the measurements of human’s upper body when moving. This study provides the scientific frame of the reference in the structural design of sleeves and shrinkage.
Secondly, by comparative method, the dissertation formulates several sleeve structural design methods such as Japanese prototype method, basic sample method and proportion method. Their individual differences in measurements are got by analyzing and comparing the control measurements and calculation formula of these methods. At the same time, their limitations are found: these methods can not control the shrinkage and counterpoint of the sleeves.
Based on these limitation, this dissertation presents a new methods of sleeve matching——sleeve matching by axes, which analyzes how to control the match and shrinkage between armholes and sleeve crowns. In this theory main factors which influence sleeves construction are described and main value range of armholes and sleeve crowns is defined by large of experiments and sample-making. By measuring main parts, it analyzes the variable factors using regression analysis method and gets the regression equation between the whole shrinkage and the armholes and sleeve crowns.
Thirdly, in this dissertation subjective evaluation system is built, Esthetics and comfort evaluation system is also built by sample-making. The better value range of sleeve patterns is come to a conclusion both in esthetics and comfort.
Finally, using the research---- sleeve matching by axes into the practice ,five-size samples are made (150/76A、155/80A、160/84A、165/88A、170/92A) in order to check the research, This practice proves the theory’s rationality and practicality. It gives the good reference in theory in fit sleeve construction design.
针对以上的产业状况,本课题对女装合体袖的配袖做了系统的研究。首先,课题分析了影响袖子结构的人体静、动态体型特征,完成了人体上肢在做常规动作时的角度测量,为袖子结构设计中松量设置和舒适性评价提供了科学的参照依据。其次,本课题比较研究了几种典型的袖子结构设计方法:日本文化式原型配袖法、基样配袖法及比例配袖法。通过对这几种方法的各控制部位数据及公式进行分析比较,得出各自的数据差异。同时也指出了三种方法共同的局限性。
基于以上几种配袖方法的局限性,本课题提出了一种新的配袖方法——轴线配袖法,并分析了该配袖法如何实现袖窿与袖山的对位吻合及吃势量的控制。通过论述袖子结构的主要影响因素,确定了合体袖的袖山高与吃势量的取值范围,并设计了实验,制作了15件实验样衣。通过对样衣样板关键部位数据的测量,用数学理论对变量进行回归分析,得出总吃势与袖山高和袖窿弧线增量的回归方程。
再者,建立了主观评价体系,确定了静态美观性与动态舒适性的评价指标与内容,并对样衣做了美观性与舒适性的评价。通过比较分析评价结果,得出兼具美观性与舒适性的袖子结构的袖山高取值。
最后,通过利用以上研究成果,以轴线配袖法配置五个不同尺码(150/76A、155/80A、160/84A、165/88A、170/92A)服装的袖子样板并试样,通过比较成衣照片与样板数据,验证了轴线配袖法及以上实验结果的合理性和实用性,为合体袖结构设计提供一定的理论借鉴。
Esthetics and comfort is the basic of selecting clothes in people’s everyday life. But, it is very pity that some clothes patterns are made by makers experience or theory study, according to our investigation and study, these patterns lack of research about esthetics in styles and comfort in constructions, especially in deal with the fit sleeves. It becomes a technical problem.
On account of this status, this dissertation focuses on the women’s fit sleeves research. The main research contents and results are the following:
Firstly, the dissertation analyzes human’s physical personalities which influence the sleeves constructions, studies the measurements of human’s upper body when moving. This study provides the scientific frame of the reference in the structural design of sleeves and shrinkage.
Secondly, by comparative method, the dissertation formulates several sleeve structural design methods such as Japanese prototype method, basic sample method and proportion method. Their individual differences in measurements are got by analyzing and comparing the control measurements and calculation formula of these methods. At the same time, their limitations are found: these methods can not control the shrinkage and counterpoint of the sleeves.
Based on these limitation, this dissertation presents a new methods of sleeve matching——sleeve matching by axes, which analyzes how to control the match and shrinkage between armholes and sleeve crowns. In this theory main factors which influence sleeves construction are described and main value range of armholes and sleeve crowns is defined by large of experiments and sample-making. By measuring main parts, it analyzes the variable factors using regression analysis method and gets the regression equation between the whole shrinkage and the armholes and sleeve crowns.
Thirdly, in this dissertation subjective evaluation system is built, Esthetics and comfort evaluation system is also built by sample-making. The better value range of sleeve patterns is come to a conclusion both in esthetics and comfort.
Finally, using the research---- sleeve matching by axes into the practice ,five-size samples are made (150/76A、155/80A、160/84A、165/88A、170/92A) in order to check the research, This practice proves the theory’s rationality and practicality. It gives the good reference in theory in fit sleeve construction design.
引文
[1]欧内斯廷·科博等,美国经典服装制图与打板,中国纺织出版社出版,2003.1,-25
[2][25]威尼弗雷德·奥尔德里奇,英国经典服装板型,中国纺织出版社出版,2003.2, -28-29
[3]日本文化服装学院、文化女子大学,文化服装讲座(女装编2、3),中国展望出版社
[4]三吉满智子,服装造型学(理论篇),中国纺织出版社,2006.4
[5]徐蓼芫、张文斌,文化式原型变化之比较,东华大学学报(自然科学版),2002.10,28,(5)
[6][18]刘瑞璞、刘维和,女装纸样设计原理与技巧,中国纺织出版社,2003.3
[7]张志,圆装袖山与袖窿的关系,服装科技,1997.6
[8][12]吴俊,女装结构设计与应用,中国纺织出版社,2000.4
[9][16][26]葛俊康,袖子结构大全,东华大学出版社,2003.7,-7-9
[10]郅晓磊、刘冠彬、张文斌,服装袖眼与袖窿配伍性探讨与分析,广西轻工业,2008.2,2
[11][14]甘应进、陈东升,新编服装结构设计,中国轻工业出版社,2002.3,-146-147
[13][41]吴经熊、孔志,最新时装配袖技术,上海科学技术出版社,2007.6,-35
[15][20]张文斌,服装工艺学(结构设计分册),中国纺织出版社,2002.1
[17]陈秀娣,服装结构设计原理,上海科学技术出版社
[19]中屋、典子、三吉满智子,服装造型学(技术篇Ⅱ),中国纺织出版社,2004.9
[21]詹淑灵,两片袖的袖吃势量分配及对位点的研究,中原工学院学报,2003.9,14,(3)
[22]成月华,绱缝袖袖窿与袖山对位点的确定,扬州职业大学学报,1999.6,3,(2)
[23]姚忠妹、张文斌、张渭源,袖山结构模型和结构设计方法的探讨,中国纺织大学学报,1999.12,2,(6)
[24]杨玉芝,关于袖山高的合理确定,辽宁师专学报,2001.3,3,(1)
[27]阎玉秀,袖子与前衣片对条对格关系研究,浙江丝绸工学院学报,1997.6,14,(2)
[28]甘应进、刘辉、姜岩、陈东生,原型袖窿的结构设计,纺织学报,2001.2,22,(2)
[29]阎玉秀,袖子结构与舒适性关系研究,浙江丝绸工学院学报,1995.12,12,(4)
[30]姚怡、黄华珍,服装袖子纸样结构参数分析,国际纺织导报,2008,5
[31]吴俊、蔡阳勇,女装合体袖结构设计的实验研究,西安工程大学学报,2008.2,22,(1)
[32]李兴刚、李俊,男西装袖子纸样设计的实验研究分析,东华大学学报(自然科学版),2001.8,27,(4)
[33]戴玮、张渭源,服装衣身合体性评价中的模糊数学方法,东华大学学报(自然科学版),2003.6,29,(3)
[34]吕东风、张茂林,服装外表质量的评价,北京纺织,1999,20,(6),-47-49
[35] X.B.Yang、X.B.Huang,Evaluating Fabric Wrinkle Degree with a Photometric Stereo Method,Texitle Res.J.,2003,Vol.73 No.5,-451-453
[36]陈伟伟,服装结构设计方法比较与着装褶皱效果评价,中国优秀硕士论文全文数据库,苏州大学,2006
[37]向东,服装创意结构设计与制板,中国纺织出版社,2005.9,-68
[38]戴鸿,服装号型标准及其应用,中国纺织出版社,第2版,2001.8,-21-27
[39]周丽华,平衡于人体静动态的上装结构配伍技术研究,中国优秀硕士论文全文数据库,东华大学,2005
[40]吕学海,服装结构设计与技法,中国纺织出版社,1997.9,-73
[42]王益正,中国衣型结构——服装发明专利技术,安徽科学技术出版社,2008.1,-147-152
[43]庄除强、吴亚森,应用数理统计基础,华南理工大学出版社,第2版,2003.4
[44]唐世君,夏服热湿舒适性评价模型的研究,中国优秀硕士论文全文数据库,东北大学,2001.2
[45]胡永宏、贺思辉,综合评价方法,科学出版社,第1版,2000.10
[46]罗莎、章永红,西装两片袖结构与造型的研究,浙江丝绸工学院学报,1999.3,16,(1)
[47]戴玮、张渭源,衣袖结构数学模型建立与几何参数推导,纺织学报,2002.6,23,(3)
[49]戴玮、张祖芳,衣袖结构数学模型几何参数分析,纺织学报,2002.8,23,(4)
[50] Helen Joseph Armstrong,Patternmaking for Fashion Design, New York:Harper & Row,Publishers,1987
[51]Janice Huck,Oprah Maganga and Younghee Kim,Protective overalls:evaluation of garment design and fit,International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,1997,Vol.9 No.1,-45-61
[52]柳柳柳子,安柳美柳子,高柳高理子,高高和子,衣服高柳高柳合性高柳高高研究(第1柳)——袖袖袖高柳造高袖袖袖,袖袖学柳柳25(3),1974,-201-205
[53]小池美池子,池池智柳子,池柳池里子,袖原型高基柳池池池量柳定高池池高池ププ法高袖袖袖,袖袖学柳柳,1979,Vol.30,No.2,-51-57
[54]王旭,日本文化原型女式西服袖结构设计的改进,北京服装学院学报,1995,15,(2)
[55]胡秀琴,西服袖子美观适体初探,常州技术师范学院学报,2002,8,(1)
[56]邹奉元,西装袖高图法研究,浙江丝绸工学院学报,1994,11,(4)
[57]金子敏、阎玉秀,织物性能与袖子吃势的相关系研究,纺织学报,1999,5
[58]姜连军,合体两片袖的上袖定位方法,大连轻工业学院学报,1999,15,(4)
[59]侯维华,服装PDS专袖系统中衣袖结构模型的研制开发,中国优秀硕士论文全文数据库,东华大学,2000
[60]Helen Joseph Armstrong,Patternmaking for Fashion Design,Second Edition,Copyright ? 1995 by Harper Collins College Publishers
[2][25]威尼弗雷德·奥尔德里奇,英国经典服装板型,中国纺织出版社出版,2003.2, -28-29
[3]日本文化服装学院、文化女子大学,文化服装讲座(女装编2、3),中国展望出版社
[4]三吉满智子,服装造型学(理论篇),中国纺织出版社,2006.4
[5]徐蓼芫、张文斌,文化式原型变化之比较,东华大学学报(自然科学版),2002.10,28,(5)
[6][18]刘瑞璞、刘维和,女装纸样设计原理与技巧,中国纺织出版社,2003.3
[7]张志,圆装袖山与袖窿的关系,服装科技,1997.6
[8][12]吴俊,女装结构设计与应用,中国纺织出版社,2000.4
[9][16][26]葛俊康,袖子结构大全,东华大学出版社,2003.7,-7-9
[10]郅晓磊、刘冠彬、张文斌,服装袖眼与袖窿配伍性探讨与分析,广西轻工业,2008.2,2
[11][14]甘应进、陈东升,新编服装结构设计,中国轻工业出版社,2002.3,-146-147
[13][41]吴经熊、孔志,最新时装配袖技术,上海科学技术出版社,2007.6,-35
[15][20]张文斌,服装工艺学(结构设计分册),中国纺织出版社,2002.1
[17]陈秀娣,服装结构设计原理,上海科学技术出版社
[19]中屋、典子、三吉满智子,服装造型学(技术篇Ⅱ),中国纺织出版社,2004.9
[21]詹淑灵,两片袖的袖吃势量分配及对位点的研究,中原工学院学报,2003.9,14,(3)
[22]成月华,绱缝袖袖窿与袖山对位点的确定,扬州职业大学学报,1999.6,3,(2)
[23]姚忠妹、张文斌、张渭源,袖山结构模型和结构设计方法的探讨,中国纺织大学学报,1999.12,2,(6)
[24]杨玉芝,关于袖山高的合理确定,辽宁师专学报,2001.3,3,(1)
[27]阎玉秀,袖子与前衣片对条对格关系研究,浙江丝绸工学院学报,1997.6,14,(2)
[28]甘应进、刘辉、姜岩、陈东生,原型袖窿的结构设计,纺织学报,2001.2,22,(2)
[29]阎玉秀,袖子结构与舒适性关系研究,浙江丝绸工学院学报,1995.12,12,(4)
[30]姚怡、黄华珍,服装袖子纸样结构参数分析,国际纺织导报,2008,5
[31]吴俊、蔡阳勇,女装合体袖结构设计的实验研究,西安工程大学学报,2008.2,22,(1)
[32]李兴刚、李俊,男西装袖子纸样设计的实验研究分析,东华大学学报(自然科学版),2001.8,27,(4)
[33]戴玮、张渭源,服装衣身合体性评价中的模糊数学方法,东华大学学报(自然科学版),2003.6,29,(3)
[34]吕东风、张茂林,服装外表质量的评价,北京纺织,1999,20,(6),-47-49
[35] X.B.Yang、X.B.Huang,Evaluating Fabric Wrinkle Degree with a Photometric Stereo Method,Texitle Res.J.,2003,Vol.73 No.5,-451-453
[36]陈伟伟,服装结构设计方法比较与着装褶皱效果评价,中国优秀硕士论文全文数据库,苏州大学,2006
[37]向东,服装创意结构设计与制板,中国纺织出版社,2005.9,-68
[38]戴鸿,服装号型标准及其应用,中国纺织出版社,第2版,2001.8,-21-27
[39]周丽华,平衡于人体静动态的上装结构配伍技术研究,中国优秀硕士论文全文数据库,东华大学,2005
[40]吕学海,服装结构设计与技法,中国纺织出版社,1997.9,-73
[42]王益正,中国衣型结构——服装发明专利技术,安徽科学技术出版社,2008.1,-147-152
[43]庄除强、吴亚森,应用数理统计基础,华南理工大学出版社,第2版,2003.4
[44]唐世君,夏服热湿舒适性评价模型的研究,中国优秀硕士论文全文数据库,东北大学,2001.2
[45]胡永宏、贺思辉,综合评价方法,科学出版社,第1版,2000.10
[46]罗莎、章永红,西装两片袖结构与造型的研究,浙江丝绸工学院学报,1999.3,16,(1)
[47]戴玮、张渭源,衣袖结构数学模型建立与几何参数推导,纺织学报,2002.6,23,(3)
[49]戴玮、张祖芳,衣袖结构数学模型几何参数分析,纺织学报,2002.8,23,(4)
[50] Helen Joseph Armstrong,Patternmaking for Fashion Design, New York:Harper & Row,Publishers,1987
[51]Janice Huck,Oprah Maganga and Younghee Kim,Protective overalls:evaluation of garment design and fit,International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,1997,Vol.9 No.1,-45-61
[52]柳柳柳子,安柳美柳子,高柳高理子,高高和子,衣服高柳高柳合性高柳高高研究(第1柳)——袖袖袖高柳造高袖袖袖,袖袖学柳柳25(3),1974,-201-205
[53]小池美池子,池池智柳子,池柳池里子,袖原型高基柳池池池量柳定高池池高池ププ法高袖袖袖,袖袖学柳柳,1979,Vol.30,No.2,-51-57
[54]王旭,日本文化原型女式西服袖结构设计的改进,北京服装学院学报,1995,15,(2)
[55]胡秀琴,西服袖子美观适体初探,常州技术师范学院学报,2002,8,(1)
[56]邹奉元,西装袖高图法研究,浙江丝绸工学院学报,1994,11,(4)
[57]金子敏、阎玉秀,织物性能与袖子吃势的相关系研究,纺织学报,1999,5
[58]姜连军,合体两片袖的上袖定位方法,大连轻工业学院学报,1999,15,(4)
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