摘要
随着全球人口老龄化问题的日益凸显,抗衰老,抗皱成为人们热衷的话题。本文介绍了抗皱原料的主要研究进展;主要介绍了胜肽类维生素类、腺苷及几种植物活性成分在抗皱化妆品中应用;并从其特点、功效及评价方法方面做了综合介绍。同时展望了抗皱化妆品的未来发展趋势,为继续研究抗皱及舒缓皱纹化妆品提供指导。
As the global population aging problem increasingly,anti-aging,anti wrinkle has become a common topic.This paper introduces the research progress of main raw materials;mainly introduces the application of peptide,vitamin A and several plant extracts on Anti Wrinkle cosmetics;and introduces the characteristics,functions and evaluation methods.At the same time,this paper looks forward to the future development trend of Anti-Wrinkle cosmetics,to provide guidance for further study of Anti-Wrinkle cosmetics and soothing wrinkles.
引文
[1]董银卯,何聪芬.现代化妆品生物技术[M].化学工业出版社:137~167.
[2]董银卯,孟宏,何聪芬.养生护肤品[M].化学工业出版社:33~38.
[3]单承莺,马世宏,张卫明.新型天然肽类原料在化妆品中的应用和研究进展[J].中国野生植物资源,2015,04:30~32+68.
[4]Fernandez-Checa J C,Kalpowitz N,Carcia-R uiz C,etc.GSH transport in mitochondria:defense against TNF-induced oxidativestress and alcohol induced defect[J].Am J Phsiol,1997,273(1):7-17.
[5]王丽华.新型天然肽类研究进展[J].科研.2015,(44):22.
[6]郝玮,潘凌.螺旋藻藻蓝蛋白生理活性的研究进展[J].医学综述,2006,2:111~113.
[7]柴玉超,刘云等.海参肽对成纤维细胞的作用及与其他抗皱成分的比较[J].香料香精化妆品,2015(6):51~55.
[8]Rossetti,D.,etc.(2011).A novel anti-ageing mechanism for retinol:induction of dermal elastin synthesis and elastin fibre formation."International Journal of Cosmetic Science 33(1):62-69.
[9]Gehring W.Nicotinic acid/niacinamide[J].Cosmet Dermatol 2004,3:88-93.
[10]Bissett D.Topical niacinamide and barrier enhancement Cutis 2000,70(Suppl.6):8-12.
[11]王洪滨,孙晓春.烟酰胺在化妆品中的应用[J].中国化妆品,2003,09:64~67.
[12]杜亚威,杨文玲,刘红梅.维生素C磷酸酯衍生物的制备及其在化妆品中的应用[J].香料香精化妆品,2007,01:26~29.
[13]Kat o Eiko,Ogat a Eiji,T suzu ki Satos hi.Wrinkle preventing cosmetic[P].2003
[14]Enzo,S.,Maria,A.,&Luciano,O.(2001).HPLC determination of adenosine in human synovial fluid.Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis,24,1143-1146.
[15]Jeon,JS;Lee,MJ;Yoon,MH;Park,JA etc.Determination of Arbutin,Niacinamide,andAdenosine in Functional Cosmetic Products by High—Performance Liquid Chromatography[J].ANALYTICAL LETTERS,2014;47(10):1650
[16]Abella,M.L.2006.Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine—containing products using the FOITS technique.Int.J.Cosmet.Sri.28(6):447-51.
[17]方燕玉.天然活性成分在化妆品中的应用研究[D].北京化工大学,2008.
[18]谢艳君,孔维军,杨美华,杨世海.化妆品中常用中草药原料研究进展[J].中国中药志,2015,20:3925~3931.
[19]ChevauxK A,JacksonL,Villar ME,etc.Proximate,mineral and procyanidin content of certain food sand beverages consumed by the kuna amerinds of panama[J].J.Food Composition Analysis,2001,14(6):1553-563.
[20]郭芳.原花青素及其脂质体在化妆品中的应用研究[D].东华大学,2015.
[21]王万绪,谭蓉,谢丽娜.茶制品在日化领域的应用进展[J].中国茶叶加工,2015,04:5~10.
[22]Young Heui,KIMBiosciAnti-Wrinkle Activity of Ziyuglycoside I Isolated from a Sanguisorba officinalis Root Extract and Its Application as a Cosmeceutical Ingredient[J].Biotechnol Biochem.,2008,72(2):303-311.
[23]潘为高.补益药藏波罗花(I.younghusbandii Sprague)抗氧化抗衰老活性物质的分离纯化、结构鉴定和药理研究[D].四川大学,2007.
[24]赵进,来吉祥,何聪芬,赵华,杨亚东,董银卯.红景天活性成分的提取工艺及其美容功效研究[J].日用化学工业,2009,06:402~404+444.
[25]刘畅,莫思颖,龚盛昭.枸杞水提物在膏霜化妆品中的应用研究[J].日用化学工业,2013,03:213~216.