横编全成形袜子工艺设计与编织原理
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摘要
针对传统袜子下机需套口缝合、生产成本高的问题,采用双针床电脑横机及SDS-ONE APPEX3设计系统,从花型设计、工艺参数以及编织工艺3方面对全成形袜子进行研究。根据袜头成形结构不同,提出普通包趾袜、五趾袜、内五趾袜的全成形袜子分类方法,分别探讨了全成形袜子各部段的编织工艺,其中对3种袜头编织工艺进行重点探讨。研究表明:袜头采用局部编织工艺实现圆弧状和内五指袜趾间隔片编织;在袜脚、袜筒编织过程,通过收放针工艺实现圆筒的横向尺寸变化;袜跟在引返编织同时进行收放针,以形成梯形袋状结构;袜口采用罗纹组织并插入弹性纱以防穿着时下滑,并采用平收工艺对袜口进行最后处理。
In order to solve artificial sewing and high production costs required by conventional socks,the V-bed computerized flat knitting machine and SDS-ONE APPEX3 design system was adopted to study the whole socks from pattern design,process parameters and knitting process. According to the sox head structure,the whole socks in common socks,toe socks and inner toe socks were proposed. The knitting technology of every part of whole socks was discussed. Three kinds of sox head knitting technology were discussed emphatically. It is found that sox head adopts partial technology to realize the circular shape and spacer knitting of inner toe socks. During the knitting process of sox foot and tube,the horizontal dimension change of the cylinder can be realized by the narrowing and widening process. The sox heel forms a trapezoidal bag structure by partial technology and narrowing and widening process. The sox mouth adopts a rib structure and inserts elastic yarn to prevent slipping when wearing. The final treatment of sox mouth adopts a press-off process.
In order to solve artificial sewing and high production costs required by conventional socks,the V-bed computerized flat knitting machine and SDS-ONE APPEX3 design system was adopted to study the whole socks from pattern design,process parameters and knitting process. According to the sox head structure,the whole socks in common socks,toe socks and inner toe socks were proposed. The knitting technology of every part of whole socks was discussed. Three kinds of sox head knitting technology were discussed emphatically. It is found that sox head adopts partial technology to realize the circular shape and spacer knitting of inner toe socks. During the knitting process of sox foot and tube,the horizontal dimension change of the cylinder can be realized by the narrowing and widening process. The sox heel forms a trapezoidal bag structure by partial technology and narrowing and widening process. The sox mouth adopts a rib structure and inserts elastic yarn to prevent slipping when wearing. The final treatment of sox mouth adopts a press-off process.
引文
[1]彭佳佳,蒋高明,卢致文,等.全成形毛衫在双针床电脑横机上的编织工艺[J].纺织学报,2015,36(11):53-54.PENG Jiajia,JIANG Gaoming,LU Zhiwen,et al.Technical study of whole garment on V-bed computerized flat knitting machine[J].Journal of Textile Research,2015,36(11):53-54.
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[9]彭佳佳,蒋高明,丛洪莲,等.全成形毛衫的结构与编织原理[J].纺织学报,2017,38(11):48-55.PENG Jiajia,JIANG Gaoming,CONG Honglian,et al.Structure and knitting principle of whole garment[J].Journal of Textile Research,2017,38(11):48-55.
[10]王敏.四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺[J].纺织学报,2017,38(4):62-63.WANG Min.Whole garment knitting process on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine[J].Journal of Textile Research,2017,38(4):62-63.
[2]杨卫平.全成形毛衫的结构与编织工艺研究[D].上海:东华大学,2016:22-29.YANG Weiping.Investigation on structure and knitting technology of fully fashioned sweater[D].Shanghai:Donghua University,2016:22-29.
[3]祝细.电脑横机织可穿针织服装的编织工艺及其性能研究[D].天津:天津工业大学,2011:5-6.ZHU Xi.Research of the knitting process and performance for knit&wear clothes on the domestic computerized flat knitting[D].Tianjin:Tianjin Polytechnic University,2011:5-6.
[4]蒋家松,李义有.五趾有跟电脑提花袜的生产技术[J].针织工业,2008(8):7-8.JIANG Jiasong,LI Yiyou.Production technology of fivetoe computerized jacquard socks with heels[J].Knitting Industries,2008(8):7-8.
[5]张卫红,郭振华.电脑提花袜的设计原理与方法[J].纺织导报,2011(9):117-119.ZHANG Weihong,GUO Zhenhua.Design principles and methods of computerized jacquard socks[J].China Textile Leader,2011(9):117-119.
[6]朱文俊,郑建林.电脑横机编织技术[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2011:327-329.ZHU Wenjun,ZHENG Jianlin.Knitting Technology of Computerized Flat Knitting Machine[M].Beijing:China Textile&Apparel Press,2011:327-329.
[7]龙海如.针织学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2011:121-135.LONG Hairu.Knitting Technology[M].Beijing:China Textile&Apparel Press,2011:121-135.
[8]涂建雯,李敏.功能性袜品开发现状及发展趋势[J].针织工业,2011(4):22-24.TU Jianwen,LI Min.Development status and development trend of functional socks[J].Knitting Industries,2011(4):22-24.
[9]彭佳佳,蒋高明,丛洪莲,等.全成形毛衫的结构与编织原理[J].纺织学报,2017,38(11):48-55.PENG Jiajia,JIANG Gaoming,CONG Honglian,et al.Structure and knitting principle of whole garment[J].Journal of Textile Research,2017,38(11):48-55.
[10]王敏.四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺[J].纺织学报,2017,38(4):62-63.WANG Min.Whole garment knitting process on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine[J].Journal of Textile Research,2017,38(4):62-63.