基于功能与外观风格的织物组织设计
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摘要
织物组织为织物中经纬纱交织沉浮的规律,是面料开发和产品设计的重要环节。文章以近些年国内外的相关研究为基础,依据不同功能、外观风格的要求,主要介绍了基于面料保形性、热湿舒适性和功能性的设计,基于分形学、创新思维设计的新型织物组织设计方法;综述了机织物组织结构设计的最新研究进展,提出未来的发展方向。
Fabric weave is the law of the warp and weft interweaving in fabrics, which are the important section of fabric development and product design. Based on relative researches at home and abroad in recent years, relying on different requirements for fabrics' functions and appearance, the paper mainly introduces the design of functional fabrics, including fabric shape retention, heat and moisture comfort, etc., and newtype fabric weave design based on fractal theory and innovative thinking. The paper also concludes the latest research progress of woven fabric weave design and puts forward its future development direction
Fabric weave is the law of the warp and weft interweaving in fabrics, which are the important section of fabric development and product design. Based on relative researches at home and abroad in recent years, relying on different requirements for fabrics' functions and appearance, the paper mainly introduces the design of functional fabrics, including fabric shape retention, heat and moisture comfort, etc., and newtype fabric weave design based on fractal theory and innovative thinking. The paper also concludes the latest research progress of woven fabric weave design and puts forward its future development direction
引文
[1]BERA M,PAUL P.织物组织设计对其性能的影响[J].国际纺织导报,2017,45(9):18-21.
[2]孟丽平.纺织工程中的分形应用[J].广东蚕业,2017,51(1):38-39.
[3]周蛟.全棉牛仔布的织物结构对其保型性研究[D].浙江:浙江理工大学,2010.
[4]KUDALE M,PANCHAL P.Effect of weave on cotton fabric to improve the durable press finish rating[J].International Journal of Materials and Textile Engineering,2018,12(6):1.
[5]MAQSOOD M,HUSSAIN T,MALIK M H,et al.Modeling the effect of elastane linear density,fabric thread density,and weave float on the stretch,recovery and compression properties of bi-stretch woven fabrics for compression garments[J].The Journal of The Textile Institute,2015:1-9.
[6]弋梦梦.机织物热传导性能及其数值模拟[D].河南:中原工学院,2018.
[7]崔莉莉.织物几何结构参数与织物热传递性能的关系的量化研究[D].河南:中原工学院,2016.
[8]田慧,姜亚明,齐业雄,等.竹棉衬衫面料的设计与性能[J].纺织导报,2018(2):38-40.
[9]龙晶,沈兰萍.织物组织结构对吸湿快干机织物性能的影响[J].合成纤维,2018,47(2):36-39.
[10]张慧敏,沈兰萍.组织结构对功能性轻薄凉爽织物性能的影响[J].上海纺织科技,2018,46(4):31-33.
[11]卢士艳,闫珂.吸汗透湿功能性面料的织物组织研究[J].中原工学院学报,2008,19(6):38-40.
[12]刘杰,王府梅.单向导湿机织物结构设计[J].纺织学报,2018,39(3):50-55.
[13]马洪才,马会英.有机导电纤维抗静电织物设计及性能测试[J].棉纺织技术,2003,31(11):16-18.
[14]杨青青,刘海文,马晓红.多层吸波机织物的结构设计[J].毛纺科技,2018,46(6):6-10.
[15]张红霞,俞涤美,范丽霞,等.织物组织对双层结构提花窗帘织物遮光性的影响[J].纺织学报,2014,35((11):52-56.
[16]郑艳威.多功能百叶织物的性能研究与产品设计[D].浙江:浙江理工大学,2017.
[17]尉霞.超拒水、防紫外功能型织物的研究[D].天津:天津工业大学,2006.
[18]徐萌,瞿畅,王君泽,等.纺织工程中的分形应用研究[J].纺织导报,2012(10):72-75.
[19]NEVES J,NEVES M,JANSSENS K.Fractal geometry a new tool for textile design development applications in printing[J].International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.1994,6(1):28-36.
[20]HUDEC G,LIOVIC M.Fractals and its applications in textile pattern design[J].Tekst IL,1999,48(9):448-451.
[21]AMIDON C.Materializing the invisible[J].Surface Design Journal,2002,26(4):28-33.
[22]RODIE J B.Comfortable living[J].Textile Industries,2001,30(6):58-60.
[23]ZAHARIEVA S E.Algorithm for computer aided design curve shape form generation of knitting patterns[A].In:IEEE International Conference on Automation,Quality and Testing,Robotics[C].IEEE,2006:327-331.
[24]张聿,金耀,孙家武,等.基于分形L系统的织物分形组织设计方法[J].纺织学报,2007,28(5):51-54.
[25]贾静静,张聿.基于L系统的缎纹分形组织及其织纹效果设计[J].丝绸,2011,48(5):32-34.
[26]雷韩,张聿.基于IFS确定性迭代算法的麦粒分形组织设计法[J].丝绸,2012,49(8):26-29.
[27]熊丽丽.基于IFS的回纹分形组织设计方法[D].浙江:浙江理工大学,2015.
[28]马铃琳.变维数分形组织的设计方法[D].浙江:浙江理工大学,2013.
[29]谢宝珠.Julia集彩色渐变图形的丝绸纹样设计及数码织造方法[D].浙江:浙江理工大学,2010.
[30]王淑缓.基于分形图的纺织纹样和组织设计研究[D].江苏:苏州大学,2017.
[31]熊宇龙,张华熊,鲁佳亮,等.基于扩展分形模型的织物组织设计方法[J].浙江理工大学学报(自然科学版),2018,39(3):341-345.
[32]眭建华.基于视觉效应的丝织物创新设计与研究[D].江苏:苏州大学,2012.
[33]裘钱熠,周赳.基于结构变化的欧普艺术风格提花织物设计研究与实践[J].丝绸,2018,55(3):55-59.
[34]周赳,白琳琳.纬二重渐变全遮盖结构设计研究与实践[J].纺织学报,2018,39(1):32-38.
[2]孟丽平.纺织工程中的分形应用[J].广东蚕业,2017,51(1):38-39.
[3]周蛟.全棉牛仔布的织物结构对其保型性研究[D].浙江:浙江理工大学,2010.
[4]KUDALE M,PANCHAL P.Effect of weave on cotton fabric to improve the durable press finish rating[J].International Journal of Materials and Textile Engineering,2018,12(6):1.
[5]MAQSOOD M,HUSSAIN T,MALIK M H,et al.Modeling the effect of elastane linear density,fabric thread density,and weave float on the stretch,recovery and compression properties of bi-stretch woven fabrics for compression garments[J].The Journal of The Textile Institute,2015:1-9.
[6]弋梦梦.机织物热传导性能及其数值模拟[D].河南:中原工学院,2018.
[7]崔莉莉.织物几何结构参数与织物热传递性能的关系的量化研究[D].河南:中原工学院,2016.
[8]田慧,姜亚明,齐业雄,等.竹棉衬衫面料的设计与性能[J].纺织导报,2018(2):38-40.
[9]龙晶,沈兰萍.织物组织结构对吸湿快干机织物性能的影响[J].合成纤维,2018,47(2):36-39.
[10]张慧敏,沈兰萍.组织结构对功能性轻薄凉爽织物性能的影响[J].上海纺织科技,2018,46(4):31-33.
[11]卢士艳,闫珂.吸汗透湿功能性面料的织物组织研究[J].中原工学院学报,2008,19(6):38-40.
[12]刘杰,王府梅.单向导湿机织物结构设计[J].纺织学报,2018,39(3):50-55.
[13]马洪才,马会英.有机导电纤维抗静电织物设计及性能测试[J].棉纺织技术,2003,31(11):16-18.
[14]杨青青,刘海文,马晓红.多层吸波机织物的结构设计[J].毛纺科技,2018,46(6):6-10.
[15]张红霞,俞涤美,范丽霞,等.织物组织对双层结构提花窗帘织物遮光性的影响[J].纺织学报,2014,35((11):52-56.
[16]郑艳威.多功能百叶织物的性能研究与产品设计[D].浙江:浙江理工大学,2017.
[17]尉霞.超拒水、防紫外功能型织物的研究[D].天津:天津工业大学,2006.
[18]徐萌,瞿畅,王君泽,等.纺织工程中的分形应用研究[J].纺织导报,2012(10):72-75.
[19]NEVES J,NEVES M,JANSSENS K.Fractal geometry a new tool for textile design development applications in printing[J].International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.1994,6(1):28-36.
[20]HUDEC G,LIOVIC M.Fractals and its applications in textile pattern design[J].Tekst IL,1999,48(9):448-451.
[21]AMIDON C.Materializing the invisible[J].Surface Design Journal,2002,26(4):28-33.
[22]RODIE J B.Comfortable living[J].Textile Industries,2001,30(6):58-60.
[23]ZAHARIEVA S E.Algorithm for computer aided design curve shape form generation of knitting patterns[A].In:IEEE International Conference on Automation,Quality and Testing,Robotics[C].IEEE,2006:327-331.
[24]张聿,金耀,孙家武,等.基于分形L系统的织物分形组织设计方法[J].纺织学报,2007,28(5):51-54.
[25]贾静静,张聿.基于L系统的缎纹分形组织及其织纹效果设计[J].丝绸,2011,48(5):32-34.
[26]雷韩,张聿.基于IFS确定性迭代算法的麦粒分形组织设计法[J].丝绸,2012,49(8):26-29.
[27]熊丽丽.基于IFS的回纹分形组织设计方法[D].浙江:浙江理工大学,2015.
[28]马铃琳.变维数分形组织的设计方法[D].浙江:浙江理工大学,2013.
[29]谢宝珠.Julia集彩色渐变图形的丝绸纹样设计及数码织造方法[D].浙江:浙江理工大学,2010.
[30]王淑缓.基于分形图的纺织纹样和组织设计研究[D].江苏:苏州大学,2017.
[31]熊宇龙,张华熊,鲁佳亮,等.基于扩展分形模型的织物组织设计方法[J].浙江理工大学学报(自然科学版),2018,39(3):341-345.
[32]眭建华.基于视觉效应的丝织物创新设计与研究[D].江苏:苏州大学,2012.
[33]裘钱熠,周赳.基于结构变化的欧普艺术风格提花织物设计研究与实践[J].丝绸,2018,55(3):55-59.
[34]周赳,白琳琳.纬二重渐变全遮盖结构设计研究与实践[J].纺织学报,2018,39(1):32-38.