凉山彝族传统服饰图案艺术特征及创新设计
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摘要
当前凉山彝族经济社会发展面临前所未有的机遇,创新思考、开拓且实施凉山彝族文化资源的规划开发,创立彝族文化品牌,以建立适应社会主义市场经济体制的文化发展新机制的新动能。文章以彝族传统服饰图案田野调研和资料整理为出发点,从符号学的意蕴、程式化的格局、五色审美情趣三个方面分析其艺术特征。依托西南交通大学纤维艺术设计产学研平台,从理念到思路、从内容到手段、从策划到运作,进行创新设计实践研究。研究表明,采用继承创新和再生创新设计方法,有助于让古老的文化遗产在当代社会焕发出新的生机。
At present,Liangshan Yi nationality is facing unprecedented opportunities in terms of economic and social development. It should innovate for thinking,exploit and implement planned development of cultural resources of Liangshan Yi nationality as well as create Yi culture brand so as to establish new mechanism of cultural development adapting to socialist market economy system. Based on field investigation and data collation of the traditional costume patterns,this paper analyzed its artistic features from three aspects: the implication of semiotics,the pattern of stylization and the aesthetic teste of five colors. Relying on university-industry-research platform of fiber art design in Southwest Jiaotong University,the innovative design practice was studied from the concept to thought,from content to means and from planning to operation. The research shows,inheritance,innovation,and regenerative innovation design are helpful to bring ancient cultural heritage back to life in contemporary society.
At present,Liangshan Yi nationality is facing unprecedented opportunities in terms of economic and social development. It should innovate for thinking,exploit and implement planned development of cultural resources of Liangshan Yi nationality as well as create Yi culture brand so as to establish new mechanism of cultural development adapting to socialist market economy system. Based on field investigation and data collation of the traditional costume patterns,this paper analyzed its artistic features from three aspects: the implication of semiotics,the pattern of stylization and the aesthetic teste of five colors. Relying on university-industry-research platform of fiber art design in Southwest Jiaotong University,the innovative design practice was studied from the concept to thought,from content to means and from planning to operation. The research shows,inheritance,innovation,and regenerative innovation design are helpful to bring ancient cultural heritage back to life in contemporary society.
引文
[1]韦安多.凉山彝族文化艺术研究[M].成都:四川民族出版社,2004.WEI Anduo. Liangshan Yi Culture and Art Research[M].Chengdu:Sichuan Nationalities Publishing House,2004.
[2]王天玺.中国彝族通史[M].昆明:云南人民出版社,2012.WANG Tianxi. A General History of Yi Nationality in China[M]. Kunming:Yunnan People’s Publishing House,2012.
[3]刘焰.凉山彝族文物图鉴[M].成都:四川美术出版社,2004.LIU Yan. Liangshan Yi People’s Cultural Relics Illustrated[M]. Chengdu:Sichuan Art Publishing House,2004.
[4]常沙娜,刘正,周秀清.中国织绣服饰全集[M].天津:天津人民美术出版社,2005.CHANG Sha’na,LIU Zheng,ZHOU Xiuqing. The Complete Set of Chinese Weaving and Embroidery Costumes[M].Tianjin:Tianjin People’s Arts Publishing House,2005.
[5]谢青.西南少数民族图案传承应用的符号学逻辑[J].贵州民族研究,2015,36(7):41-44.XIE Qing. The minority nationalities pattern application of semiotic logic in Southwest China[J]. Guizhou Ethnic Studies,2015,36(7):41-44.
[6]王玮.传统草木染料的五色色素萃取及应用研究[D].成都:西南交通大学,2006:5.WANG Wei. The Research on Picking up the Five Colors Pigments from Vegetable Dyes[D]. Chengdu:Southwest Jiaotong University,2006:5.
[7]方赫译.我的幺表妹[M].成都:四川民族出版社,1983:29.FANG Heyi. My Little Sister[M]. Chengdu:Sichuan Ethnic Publishing House,1983:29.
[8]苏小燕.灵魂的图案:用纹样和色彩解读大凉山昭觉彝族丧葬枕头文化[J].装饰,2007(9):82-83.SU Xiaoyan. The pattern of soul:interpreting the pillow culture for funeral ceremony of Yi People in Zhaojue of Daliangshan by pattern and color[J]. ZHUANGSHI,2007(9):82-83.
[9]鲍冬丽.凉山彝族色彩象征分析[D].北京:中央民族大学,2012:66.BAO Dongli. Liangshan Yi Color Symbolism[D]. Beijing:Minzu University of China,2012:66.
[10]滕晓铂.维克多·帕帕奈克:设计伦理的先驱[J].装饰,2013(7):60-61.TENG Xiaobo. Victor Papanek:The pioneer of design ethics[J]. ZHUANGSHI,2013(7):60-61.
[11]蒋燕.思维导图在招贴设计课堂教学与设计实践中的应用[J].装饰,2012(3):108-109.JIANG Yan. Application of mind mapping in poster design classroom teaching and practice guiding[J]. ZHUANGSHI,2012(3):108-109.
[12]孔令怡,吴江,魏玲玲,等.旅游凝视下凤凰古城旅游典型意象元素分析:基于隐喻抽取技术(ZMET)[J].旅游学刊,2018,33(1):42-52.KONG Lingyi,WU Jiang,WEI Lingling,et al. Typical tourism image elements of fenghuang ancient town analyzed from the tourist gaze perspective:based on the zaltman metaphor elicitation technique[J]. Tourism Tribune,2018,33(1):42-52.
[13]王玮.现代丝巾设计中羌族传统服饰图案创新应用[J].丝绸,2014,51(5):63-68.WANG Wei. Innovative applications of Qiang traditional costume patterns in modern silk scarves design[J]. Journal of Silk,2014,51(5):63-68.
[2]王天玺.中国彝族通史[M].昆明:云南人民出版社,2012.WANG Tianxi. A General History of Yi Nationality in China[M]. Kunming:Yunnan People’s Publishing House,2012.
[3]刘焰.凉山彝族文物图鉴[M].成都:四川美术出版社,2004.LIU Yan. Liangshan Yi People’s Cultural Relics Illustrated[M]. Chengdu:Sichuan Art Publishing House,2004.
[4]常沙娜,刘正,周秀清.中国织绣服饰全集[M].天津:天津人民美术出版社,2005.CHANG Sha’na,LIU Zheng,ZHOU Xiuqing. The Complete Set of Chinese Weaving and Embroidery Costumes[M].Tianjin:Tianjin People’s Arts Publishing House,2005.
[5]谢青.西南少数民族图案传承应用的符号学逻辑[J].贵州民族研究,2015,36(7):41-44.XIE Qing. The minority nationalities pattern application of semiotic logic in Southwest China[J]. Guizhou Ethnic Studies,2015,36(7):41-44.
[6]王玮.传统草木染料的五色色素萃取及应用研究[D].成都:西南交通大学,2006:5.WANG Wei. The Research on Picking up the Five Colors Pigments from Vegetable Dyes[D]. Chengdu:Southwest Jiaotong University,2006:5.
[7]方赫译.我的幺表妹[M].成都:四川民族出版社,1983:29.FANG Heyi. My Little Sister[M]. Chengdu:Sichuan Ethnic Publishing House,1983:29.
[8]苏小燕.灵魂的图案:用纹样和色彩解读大凉山昭觉彝族丧葬枕头文化[J].装饰,2007(9):82-83.SU Xiaoyan. The pattern of soul:interpreting the pillow culture for funeral ceremony of Yi People in Zhaojue of Daliangshan by pattern and color[J]. ZHUANGSHI,2007(9):82-83.
[9]鲍冬丽.凉山彝族色彩象征分析[D].北京:中央民族大学,2012:66.BAO Dongli. Liangshan Yi Color Symbolism[D]. Beijing:Minzu University of China,2012:66.
[10]滕晓铂.维克多·帕帕奈克:设计伦理的先驱[J].装饰,2013(7):60-61.TENG Xiaobo. Victor Papanek:The pioneer of design ethics[J]. ZHUANGSHI,2013(7):60-61.
[11]蒋燕.思维导图在招贴设计课堂教学与设计实践中的应用[J].装饰,2012(3):108-109.JIANG Yan. Application of mind mapping in poster design classroom teaching and practice guiding[J]. ZHUANGSHI,2012(3):108-109.
[12]孔令怡,吴江,魏玲玲,等.旅游凝视下凤凰古城旅游典型意象元素分析:基于隐喻抽取技术(ZMET)[J].旅游学刊,2018,33(1):42-52.KONG Lingyi,WU Jiang,WEI Lingling,et al. Typical tourism image elements of fenghuang ancient town analyzed from the tourist gaze perspective:based on the zaltman metaphor elicitation technique[J]. Tourism Tribune,2018,33(1):42-52.
[13]王玮.现代丝巾设计中羌族传统服饰图案创新应用[J].丝绸,2014,51(5):63-68.WANG Wei. Innovative applications of Qiang traditional costume patterns in modern silk scarves design[J]. Journal of Silk,2014,51(5):63-68.
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