复合坡度珊瑚礁地形上波浪破碎的试验研究
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摘要
通过波浪水槽试验,研究了珊瑚礁地形上规则波的破碎特征,包括破碎类型、破碎波高、破碎位置以及破碎带宽度。试验在带礁缘的复合坡度断面下进行,测试了两种水位下系列波高和波周期相组合的工况。试验研究了波浪破碎类型的区分标准,评估了已有四类破碎指标在复合坡度珊瑚礁地形上的适用性,并给出了描述破碎位置和破碎带宽度的经验公式。结果表明:礁边水深深水波高比可较好地区分波浪的破碎类型;四类破碎指标关系式中以破碎波高深水波高比之于深水波陡的相关性为最优;深水波高和礁边水深是影响破碎位置和破碎带宽度的主要因素,随着深水波高礁边水深比的增大,量纲一破碎位置(破碎点与礁边的距离和礁边处浅水波长的比值)逐渐减小,量纲一破碎带宽度(破碎带宽度和礁边浅水波长的比值)逐渐增大。
A series of wave-flume tests were performed to study the characteristics of regular waves breaking on coral reefs,including the breaker type,breaker height,breaker position and surf-zone width.The tests were performed on the composite slope section of a reef rim at the specified conditions combined with serial wave heights and wave periods for two water levels.The test studied the criteria for differentiating the breaker types,assessed the applicability of the four breaker indexes on coral reefs with a composite slope,and provided an experience formula describing the breaker position and surf-zone width.Thus the following conclusions were drawn:the breaker types could be differentiated by the ratio of reef-edge water depth to the deep-water wave height;in the relational expressions of four breaker indexes,the correlation between the ratio of breaker height to deep-water wave height and the deep-water wave steepness was the best;the deep-water wave height and reef-edge water depth had great influence on breaker position and surf-zone width;with the increase in the ratio of deep-water wave height to reef-edge water depth,the dimensionless breaker position(the ratio of distance between the breaker point and the reef edge to the reef-edge shallow-water wave length) decreased and the dimensionless surf-zone width(the ratio of surf-zone width to reef-edge shallow-water wave length) increased.
A series of wave-flume tests were performed to study the characteristics of regular waves breaking on coral reefs,including the breaker type,breaker height,breaker position and surf-zone width.The tests were performed on the composite slope section of a reef rim at the specified conditions combined with serial wave heights and wave periods for two water levels.The test studied the criteria for differentiating the breaker types,assessed the applicability of the four breaker indexes on coral reefs with a composite slope,and provided an experience formula describing the breaker position and surf-zone width.Thus the following conclusions were drawn:the breaker types could be differentiated by the ratio of reef-edge water depth to the deep-water wave height;in the relational expressions of four breaker indexes,the correlation between the ratio of breaker height to deep-water wave height and the deep-water wave steepness was the best;the deep-water wave height and reef-edge water depth had great influence on breaker position and surf-zone width;with the increase in the ratio of deep-water wave height to reef-edge water depth,the dimensionless breaker position(the ratio of distance between the breaker point and the reef edge to the reef-edge shallow-water wave length) decreased and the dimensionless surf-zone width(the ratio of surf-zone width to reef-edge shallow-water wave length) increased.
引文
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[2]KUNKEL C M,HALLBERG R W,OPPENHEIMER M.Coral reefs reduce tsunami impact in model simulations[J].Geophysical Research Letters,2006,33(23):265-288.
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[12]姚宇,唐政江,杜睿超,等.潮汐流影响下珊瑚岛礁附近波浪传播变形和增水试验[J].水科学进展,2017,28(4):614-621.(YAO Y,TANG Z J,DU R C,et al.Laboratory study of wave transformation and wave-induced setup over reef islands under the effect of tidal current[J].Advances in Water Science,2017,28(4):614-621.(in Chinese))
[13]GALVIN C J.Breaker type classification on three laboratory beaches[J].Journal of Geophysical Research,1968,73(12):3651-3659.
[14]IVERSEN H W.Laboratory study of breakers[J].Gravity Waves,1952,521:9-32.
[15]BATTJES J A.Surf similarity[C]//Proc 14th Coastal Eng Conf.New York:ASCE,1974:405-418.
[16]LIU Y,NIU X,YU X.A new predictive formula for inception of regular wave breaking[J].Coastal Engineering,2011,58(9):877-889.
[17]RATTANAPITIKON W,SHIBAYAMA T.Verification and modification of breaker height formulas[J].Coastal Engineering Journal,2000,42(4):389-406.
[18]MICHELL J H.XLIV:the highest waves in water[J].Philosophical Magazine,1977,36(222):430-437.
[19]MICHE M.Mouvements ondulatoires de la mer en profondeur constante ou décroissante[J].Annales de Ponts et Chaussées,1944,(1):26-78,(2):270-292,(3):369-406.
[20]BATTJES J A,JANSSEN J.Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves[C]//Proc.16th Coastal Eng Conf.ASCE,1978:569-589.
[21]OSTENDORF D W,MADSEN O S.An analysis of longshore currents and associated sediment transport in the surf zone[R].Cambridge:Massachusetts Institute of Technology,1979.
[22]BOOIJ N.Gravity waves on water with non-uniform depth and current[D].Delft:Delft University of Technology,1981.
[23]M'COWAN J.On the highest wave of permanent type[J].Proceedings of the Edinburgh Mathematical Society,1893,12:112.
[24]GALVIN C J.Breaker travel and choice of design wave height[J].Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division,1969,95(2):175-200.
[25]SUNAMURA T.A laboratory study of offshore transport of sediment and a model for eroding beaches[C]//Proc 17th Coastal Eng Conf.Sydney:ASCE,1980:1051-1070.
[26]SINGAMSETTI S R,WIND H G.Breaking waves:characteristics of shoaling and breaking periodic waves normally incident to plane beaches of constant slope,report on investigation[J].Journal of Economic Entomology,1980,5(1):123-128.
[27]GODA Y.A synthesis of breaker indices[J].Proceedings of the Japan Society of Civil Engineers,1970(180):39-49.
[28]GODA Y.Reanalysis of regular and random breaking wave statistics[J].Coastal Engineering Journal,2010,52(1):71-106.
[29]MUNK W H.The solitary wave theory and its application to surf problems[J].Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences,1949,51(1):376-424.
[30]KOMAR P D,GAUGHAN M K.Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction[C]//Proc 13th Coastal Eng Conf.New York:ASCE,1972:405-418.
[31]SUNAMURA T,HORIKAWA K.Two dimensional beach transformation due to waves[C]//Proc 14th Coastal Eng Conf.New York:ASCE,1974:920-938.
[2]KUNKEL C M,HALLBERG R W,OPPENHEIMER M.Coral reefs reduce tsunami impact in model simulations[J].Geophysical Research Letters,2006,33(23):265-288.
[3]HENCH J L,LEICHTER J J,MONISMITH S G.Episodic circulation and exchange in a wave-driven coral reef and lagoon system[J].Limnology and Oceanography,2008,53(6):2681-2694.
[4]LOWE R J,FALTER J L.Oceanic forcing of coral reefs[J].Annual Review of Marine Science,2015,7:43-66.
[5]SMITH E R,KRAUS N C.Laboratory study of wave-breaking over bars and artificial reefs[J].Journal of Waterway,Port,Coastal,and Ocean Engineering,1991,117(4):307-325.
[6]NELSON R C,LESLEIGHTER E J.Breaker height attenuation over platform coral reefs[C]//1985 Australasian Conference on Coastal and Ocean Engineering.Australia:Institution of Engineers,1985:605.
[7]张庆河,刘海青,赵子丹.波浪在台阶地形上的破碎[J].天津大学学报,1999(2):73-76.(ZHANG Q H,LIU H Q,ZHAO ZD.Wave breaking on a submerged step[J].Journal of Tianjin University,1999(2):73-76.(in Chinese))
[8]BLENKINSOPP C E,CHAPLIN J R.The effect of relative crest submergence on wave breaking over submerged slopes[J].Coastal Engineering,2008,55(12):967-974.
[9]YAO Y,HUANG Z,MONISMITH S G,et al.Characteristics of monochromatic waves breaking over fringing reefs[J].Journal of Coastal Research,2013,29(1):94-104.
[10]姚宇,杜睿超,袁万成,等.珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究[J].海洋学报,2015,37(12):66-73.(YAO Y,DU RC,YUAN W C,et al.Experimental study of wave transformation around the surf zone over fringing reefs[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,2015,37(12):66-73.(in Chinese))
[11]柳淑学,刘宁,李金宣,等.波浪在珊瑚礁地形上破碎特性试验研究[J].海洋工程,2015,33(2):42-49.(LIU S X,LIUN,LI J X,et al.Experimental researches on wave propagation characteristics on reefs terrain[J].The Ocean Engineering,2015,33(2):42-49.(in Chinese))
[12]姚宇,唐政江,杜睿超,等.潮汐流影响下珊瑚岛礁附近波浪传播变形和增水试验[J].水科学进展,2017,28(4):614-621.(YAO Y,TANG Z J,DU R C,et al.Laboratory study of wave transformation and wave-induced setup over reef islands under the effect of tidal current[J].Advances in Water Science,2017,28(4):614-621.(in Chinese))
[13]GALVIN C J.Breaker type classification on three laboratory beaches[J].Journal of Geophysical Research,1968,73(12):3651-3659.
[14]IVERSEN H W.Laboratory study of breakers[J].Gravity Waves,1952,521:9-32.
[15]BATTJES J A.Surf similarity[C]//Proc 14th Coastal Eng Conf.New York:ASCE,1974:405-418.
[16]LIU Y,NIU X,YU X.A new predictive formula for inception of regular wave breaking[J].Coastal Engineering,2011,58(9):877-889.
[17]RATTANAPITIKON W,SHIBAYAMA T.Verification and modification of breaker height formulas[J].Coastal Engineering Journal,2000,42(4):389-406.
[18]MICHELL J H.XLIV:the highest waves in water[J].Philosophical Magazine,1977,36(222):430-437.
[19]MICHE M.Mouvements ondulatoires de la mer en profondeur constante ou décroissante[J].Annales de Ponts et Chaussées,1944,(1):26-78,(2):270-292,(3):369-406.
[20]BATTJES J A,JANSSEN J.Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves[C]//Proc.16th Coastal Eng Conf.ASCE,1978:569-589.
[21]OSTENDORF D W,MADSEN O S.An analysis of longshore currents and associated sediment transport in the surf zone[R].Cambridge:Massachusetts Institute of Technology,1979.
[22]BOOIJ N.Gravity waves on water with non-uniform depth and current[D].Delft:Delft University of Technology,1981.
[23]M'COWAN J.On the highest wave of permanent type[J].Proceedings of the Edinburgh Mathematical Society,1893,12:112.
[24]GALVIN C J.Breaker travel and choice of design wave height[J].Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division,1969,95(2):175-200.
[25]SUNAMURA T.A laboratory study of offshore transport of sediment and a model for eroding beaches[C]//Proc 17th Coastal Eng Conf.Sydney:ASCE,1980:1051-1070.
[26]SINGAMSETTI S R,WIND H G.Breaking waves:characteristics of shoaling and breaking periodic waves normally incident to plane beaches of constant slope,report on investigation[J].Journal of Economic Entomology,1980,5(1):123-128.
[27]GODA Y.A synthesis of breaker indices[J].Proceedings of the Japan Society of Civil Engineers,1970(180):39-49.
[28]GODA Y.Reanalysis of regular and random breaking wave statistics[J].Coastal Engineering Journal,2010,52(1):71-106.
[29]MUNK W H.The solitary wave theory and its application to surf problems[J].Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences,1949,51(1):376-424.
[30]KOMAR P D,GAUGHAN M K.Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction[C]//Proc 13th Coastal Eng Conf.New York:ASCE,1972:405-418.
[31]SUNAMURA T,HORIKAWA K.Two dimensional beach transformation due to waves[C]//Proc 14th Coastal Eng Conf.New York:ASCE,1974:920-938.