斜向和多向波浪的破碎指标研究
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摘要
该文通过水池物理模型实验,研究了在1:15的斜坡条件下斜向和多向波浪中破碎的特点。根据波浪类型和岸坡条件将破碎指标分为四类,总结了每一类破碎指标公式的通用形式和系数。对实验中正向和斜向规则波、正向和斜向不规则波、正向和多向不规则波的破碎指标进行了比较和分析。研究结果表明:同等条件下,斜向波的破碎指标较正向波偏大,基于不规则波有效波高的破碎指标小于规则波的,而多向波在波高较大时的破碎波高与正向不规则波相比偏小。
Laboratory experiments are conducted with normal, oblique and multidirectional waves on a plane beach with a slope of 1:15to investigate the wave breaking characteristics.The breaker indices are divided into four categoriesaccording to wave types and slope conditions.Its general forms and coefficients are summarized. Furthermore,the breaker indices of normal and oblique regular waves, normal and oblique irregular waves, normal and multidirectionalirregular waves are compared and analyzed. The analyzed results show that under the same conditions, the breaker indices of oblique wavesare larger than that of normal waves, The breaker indices defined with significant wave height of irregular waves arelower than those of regular waves, and breaking wave height of multidirectional wavesis lowerthanthat of normal irregular wavesfor larger waves.
Laboratory experiments are conducted with normal, oblique and multidirectional waves on a plane beach with a slope of 1:15to investigate the wave breaking characteristics.The breaker indices are divided into four categoriesaccording to wave types and slope conditions.Its general forms and coefficients are summarized. Furthermore,the breaker indices of normal and oblique regular waves, normal and oblique irregular waves, normal and multidirectionalirregular waves are compared and analyzed. The analyzed results show that under the same conditions, the breaker indices of oblique wavesare larger than that of normal waves, The breaker indices defined with significant wave height of irregular waves arelower than those of regular waves, and breaking wave height of multidirectional wavesis lowerthanthat of normal irregular wavesfor larger waves.
引文
[1]刘煜.破碎波研究[D].清华大学,北京,中国,2011.LIU Yu.Study on breaking wave[D].Tsinghua University,Beijing,China,2011.
[2]MCCOWAN.On the highest waves in water[J].Philosophical Magazine,1894,5(36):351-358.
[3]MICHE.Mouvementsondulatoires de l’oce′an pour une eau profondeconstanteetde′croissante[R].Annales des Ponts et Chausse′es,1944.
[4]DANEL P.On the limiting clapotis[C].Gravity Waves,United States,1952.
[5]LE MéHAUTéB,KOH R C Y.On the breaking of waves arriving at an angle to the shore[J].Journal of Hydraulic Research,1967,5(1):67-88.
[6]GODA Y.A synthesis of breaker indices[J].Transactions of the Japan Society of Civil Engineers,1970,2(2):227-230.
[7]GODAY.Reanalysis of regular and random breaking wave statistics[J].Coastal Engineering Journal,2010,52(1):71-106..
[8]KAMPHUIS J W.Incipient wave breaking[J].Coastal Engineering Journal,1991,15(3):185-203.
[9]RATTANAPITIKON W,SHIBAYAMA T.Verification and modification of breaker height formulas[J].Coastal Engineering Journal,2000,42(4):389-406.
[10]SEYAMA A,KIMURA A.The measured properties of irregular wave breaking and wave height change after breaking on the slope[C].21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering,1988.
[11]MIZUGUCHI M.Breaking of irregular waves on a slope[C].23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering,Venice,Italy,1992.
[12]WU C H,NEPF H M.Breaking criteria and energy losses for three-dimensional wave breaking[J].Journal of Geophysical Research:Oceans,2002,107(C10):1-18.
[13]柳淑学,李金宣,KEYYONG H.多向聚焦破碎波的实验研究[J].水动力学研究与进展:A辑,2007,22(3):293-304.LIU Shu-xue,LI Jin-xuan,KEYYONG H.Experimental study on multi-directional focused wave breaking in wave basin[J].Journal of Hydrodynamics,Ser.A,2007,22(3):293-304
[14]GWYTHER R F.The general motion of long waves,with an examination of the direct reflexion of the solitary wave[J].The London,Edinburgh,and Dublin Philosophical Magazine and Journal of Science,1900,50(304):349-352.
[15]PACKHAM B A.The theory of symmetrical gravity waves of finite amplitude.II.The solitary wave[C].Proceedings of the Royal Society of London A:Mathematical,Physical and Engineering Sciences.London,Britain,1952.
[16]GALVIN C J.Breaker travel and choice of design wave height[J].Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division,1969,95(2):175-200.
[17]COLLINS J I,WIER W.Probabilities of wave characteristics in the surf zone[R].Tetra Tech Inc Pasadena Calif,1969.
[18]MADSEN O S.Wave climate of the continental margin:elements of its mathematical description[J].Marine Sediment Transport and Environmental Management,1976,1:65-87.
[19]SUNAMURA T.A laboratory study of offshore transport of sediment and a model for eroding beaches[C].17th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,Sydney,Australia,1980.
[20]SINGAMSETTI S R,WIND H G.Characteristics of shoaling and breaking periodic waves normally incident to plane beaches of constant slope[R].Foegepast Onderzock Waterstaat,1980.
[21]LARSON M,KRAUS N C.SBEACH:numerical model for simulating storm-induced beach change.Report1.Empirical foundation and model development[R].Coastal Engineering Research Center Vicksburg MS,1989.
[22]SMITH E R,KRAUS N C.Laboratory study on macrofeatures of wave breaking over bars and artificial reefs[R].Coastal Engineering Research Center Vicksburg MS,1990.
[23]MUNK W H.The solitary wave theory and its application to surf problems[J].Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences,1949,51(1):376-424.
[24]KOMAR P D,GAUGHAN M K.Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction[C].13th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,Vancouver,Canada,1972.
[25]SUNAMURA T,HORIKAWA K.Two-dimensional beach transformation due to waves[C].14th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,Copenhagen,Denmark,1974.
[26]OGAWA Y.SHUTO N.Run-up of periodic waves on beaches of non-uniform slope[C].19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,Houston,United States,1984.
[27]GOURLAY M R.Wave set-up,wave run-up and beach water table:interaction between surf zone hydraulics and groundwater hydraulics[J].Coastal Engineering Journal,1992,17(1):93-144.
[28]MICHELL J H.The highest waves in water[J].The London,Edinburgh,and Dublin Philosophical Magazine and Journal of Science,1893,36(222):430-437.
[29]OSTENDORF D W,MADSEN O S.An analysis of longshore currents and associated sediment transport in the surf zone[R].Massachusetts Institute of Technology,1979.
[30]BATTJES J A,JANSSEN J.Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves[C].16th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,Hamburg,Germany,1978.
[31]LI Y C,DONG G H.Wave breaking phenomena of irregular waves combined with opposing current[J].China Ocean Engineering,1993,7(2):197-206.
[32]俞聿修,柳淑学.随机波浪及其工程应用[M].大连,中国:大连理工大学出版社,2011.YU Yu-xiu,LIU Shu-xue.Random wave and its applications to engineering[M].Dalian,China:Dalian University of Technology Press,2011.
[2]MCCOWAN.On the highest waves in water[J].Philosophical Magazine,1894,5(36):351-358.
[3]MICHE.Mouvementsondulatoires de l’oce′an pour une eau profondeconstanteetde′croissante[R].Annales des Ponts et Chausse′es,1944.
[4]DANEL P.On the limiting clapotis[C].Gravity Waves,United States,1952.
[5]LE MéHAUTéB,KOH R C Y.On the breaking of waves arriving at an angle to the shore[J].Journal of Hydraulic Research,1967,5(1):67-88.
[6]GODA Y.A synthesis of breaker indices[J].Transactions of the Japan Society of Civil Engineers,1970,2(2):227-230.
[7]GODAY.Reanalysis of regular and random breaking wave statistics[J].Coastal Engineering Journal,2010,52(1):71-106..
[8]KAMPHUIS J W.Incipient wave breaking[J].Coastal Engineering Journal,1991,15(3):185-203.
[9]RATTANAPITIKON W,SHIBAYAMA T.Verification and modification of breaker height formulas[J].Coastal Engineering Journal,2000,42(4):389-406.
[10]SEYAMA A,KIMURA A.The measured properties of irregular wave breaking and wave height change after breaking on the slope[C].21st International Conference on Coastal Engineering,1988.
[11]MIZUGUCHI M.Breaking of irregular waves on a slope[C].23rd International Conference on Coastal Engineering,Venice,Italy,1992.
[12]WU C H,NEPF H M.Breaking criteria and energy losses for three-dimensional wave breaking[J].Journal of Geophysical Research:Oceans,2002,107(C10):1-18.
[13]柳淑学,李金宣,KEYYONG H.多向聚焦破碎波的实验研究[J].水动力学研究与进展:A辑,2007,22(3):293-304.LIU Shu-xue,LI Jin-xuan,KEYYONG H.Experimental study on multi-directional focused wave breaking in wave basin[J].Journal of Hydrodynamics,Ser.A,2007,22(3):293-304
[14]GWYTHER R F.The general motion of long waves,with an examination of the direct reflexion of the solitary wave[J].The London,Edinburgh,and Dublin Philosophical Magazine and Journal of Science,1900,50(304):349-352.
[15]PACKHAM B A.The theory of symmetrical gravity waves of finite amplitude.II.The solitary wave[C].Proceedings of the Royal Society of London A:Mathematical,Physical and Engineering Sciences.London,Britain,1952.
[16]GALVIN C J.Breaker travel and choice of design wave height[J].Journal of the Waterways and Harbors Division,1969,95(2):175-200.
[17]COLLINS J I,WIER W.Probabilities of wave characteristics in the surf zone[R].Tetra Tech Inc Pasadena Calif,1969.
[18]MADSEN O S.Wave climate of the continental margin:elements of its mathematical description[J].Marine Sediment Transport and Environmental Management,1976,1:65-87.
[19]SUNAMURA T.A laboratory study of offshore transport of sediment and a model for eroding beaches[C].17th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,Sydney,Australia,1980.
[20]SINGAMSETTI S R,WIND H G.Characteristics of shoaling and breaking periodic waves normally incident to plane beaches of constant slope[R].Foegepast Onderzock Waterstaat,1980.
[21]LARSON M,KRAUS N C.SBEACH:numerical model for simulating storm-induced beach change.Report1.Empirical foundation and model development[R].Coastal Engineering Research Center Vicksburg MS,1989.
[22]SMITH E R,KRAUS N C.Laboratory study on macrofeatures of wave breaking over bars and artificial reefs[R].Coastal Engineering Research Center Vicksburg MS,1990.
[23]MUNK W H.The solitary wave theory and its application to surf problems[J].Annals of the New York Academy of Sciences,1949,51(1):376-424.
[24]KOMAR P D,GAUGHAN M K.Airy wave theory and breaker height prediction[C].13th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,Vancouver,Canada,1972.
[25]SUNAMURA T,HORIKAWA K.Two-dimensional beach transformation due to waves[C].14th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,Copenhagen,Denmark,1974.
[26]OGAWA Y.SHUTO N.Run-up of periodic waves on beaches of non-uniform slope[C].19th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,Houston,United States,1984.
[27]GOURLAY M R.Wave set-up,wave run-up and beach water table:interaction between surf zone hydraulics and groundwater hydraulics[J].Coastal Engineering Journal,1992,17(1):93-144.
[28]MICHELL J H.The highest waves in water[J].The London,Edinburgh,and Dublin Philosophical Magazine and Journal of Science,1893,36(222):430-437.
[29]OSTENDORF D W,MADSEN O S.An analysis of longshore currents and associated sediment transport in the surf zone[R].Massachusetts Institute of Technology,1979.
[30]BATTJES J A,JANSSEN J.Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves[C].16th International Conference on Coastal Engineering,Hamburg,Germany,1978.
[31]LI Y C,DONG G H.Wave breaking phenomena of irregular waves combined with opposing current[J].China Ocean Engineering,1993,7(2):197-206.
[32]俞聿修,柳淑学.随机波浪及其工程应用[M].大连,中国:大连理工大学出版社,2011.YU Yu-xiu,LIU Shu-xue.Random wave and its applications to engineering[M].Dalian,China:Dalian University of Technology Press,2011.