波浪作用下级配泥沙海滩滩面变化试验研究
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摘要
砂质海滩的泥沙具有一定的级配,在波浪作用下,滩面泥沙粒径将发生分选,引起海滩质量变化。在水槽中用不同波高和周期的波浪分别对不同级配的沙滩进行作用,探究滩面在波浪外动力作用下的变化规律。结果表明:全级配沙滩在相同波高波浪作用下形成的沙坝型海滩滩型中,破波点向海的区域表层泥沙分选会随波浪周期增大变差;相同周期(T=1.68s)波浪作用下,全级配沙滩在大波高(H=13.2cm)和小波高(H=6.7cm)的波浪作用下分别形成沙坝型和滩肩型海滩,滩面泥沙分选变好;原始沙滩级配与滩面泥沙变化密切相关,同种波浪动力作用下,中细、粗中沙滩沙坝表层泥沙迎波面粗于背波面,粗细沙滩粗颗粒集中在沙坝和滩顶之间。
The sand beach is a depositional system composed of graded sands under the sorting of wave action,which decides the quality of a beach.In this paper,flume experiments under periodic waves with different wave heights are conducted to study the variation in beach sediments under wave dynamics.Results show that the bar type of beach formed by the full grade sediments under the same wave height,and the surface sediment sorting in the area from wave breaking point to the sea is inversely proportional to the wave period.Under the same periodic wave(T=1.68 s),the full grade beach will form a sand bar-type beach under the action of big waves(H=13.2 cm),and a berm type beach under the action of wavelet high waves(H=6.7 cm),and the sediment sorting on the beach surface is better.Under the same wave power,however,the sand bar surface sediment of the middle and fine grade beach and the coarse and medium grade beach is thicker than the back wave;and the coarse-grained sediment of the coarse and fine grading beach is concentrated between the sand bar and the beach top.
The sand beach is a depositional system composed of graded sands under the sorting of wave action,which decides the quality of a beach.In this paper,flume experiments under periodic waves with different wave heights are conducted to study the variation in beach sediments under wave dynamics.Results show that the bar type of beach formed by the full grade sediments under the same wave height,and the surface sediment sorting in the area from wave breaking point to the sea is inversely proportional to the wave period.Under the same periodic wave(T=1.68 s),the full grade beach will form a sand bar-type beach under the action of big waves(H=13.2 cm),and a berm type beach under the action of wavelet high waves(H=6.7 cm),and the sediment sorting on the beach surface is better.Under the same wave power,however,the sand bar surface sediment of the middle and fine grade beach and the coarse and medium grade beach is thicker than the back wave;and the coarse-grained sediment of the coarse and fine grading beach is concentrated between the sand bar and the beach top.
引文
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[13]窦衍光,刘京鹏,李军,等.辽东湾东部砂质区沉积物粒度特征及其物源指示意义[J].海洋地质与第四纪地质,2013,33(5):27-34.[DOU Yanguang,LIU Jingpeng,LI Jun,et al.Grain size characteristics of the core sediments in the Eastern Liaodong Bay and implications for depositional environment[J].Marine Geology&Quaternary Geology,2013,33(5):27-34.]
[14]王永红,沈焕庭,李九发,等.长江河口涨落潮槽沉积物特征及其动力响应[J].沉积学报,2009,27(3):511-517.[WANG Yonghong,SHEN Huanting,LI Jiufa,et al.Sedimentary features of sediment and their responses to dynamics in the flood and ebb channel of the Changjiang Estuary[J].Acta Sedimentologica Sinica,2009,27(3):511-517.]
[15]严立文,黄海军,刘勇,等.莱州屺姆岛-刁龙咀近岸海域沉积物格局与粒径趋势[J].海洋地质与第四纪地质,2014,34(1):29-36.[YAN Liwen,HUANG Haijun,LIU Yong,et al.Sediment distributional pattern and grain size trends in the coastal area of Qimu island-diaolong cape,Laizhou[J].Marine Geology&Quaternary Geology,2014,34(1):29-36.]
[16]包敏,王永红,杨燕雄,等.北戴河西海滩人工养护前后沉积物粒度变化特征[J].海洋地质前沿,2010(9):25-34.[BAO Min,WANG Yonghong,YANG Yanxiong,et al.Changes in sediment grain—size before and after beach nourishment on the west beach of Beidaihe[J].Marine Geology Frontiers.2010(9):25-34.]
[17]褚智慧,王永红,庄振业,等.北戴河中海滩人工养护前后沉积物粒度变化特征[J].海洋地质前沿,2013,29(2):62-70.[CHU Zhihui,WANG Yonghong,ZHUANG Zhenye,et al.Changes in sediment grain size before and after beach nourishment in Middle Beidaihe Beach[J].Marine Geology Frontiers,2013,29(2):62-70.]
[18]杨燕雄,张甲波.治理海岸侵蚀的人工岬湾养滩综合法[J].海洋通报,2009,28(3):92-98.[YANG Yanxiong,ZHANG Jiabo.Headland control with nourishment to restore the eroded coast[J].Marine Science Bulletin,2009,28(3):92-98.]
[19] Celikoˇglu Y,Yüksel Y,Kabdasli M S.Cross-shore sorting on a beach under wave action[J].Journal of Coastal Research,2006,22(3):487-501.
[20] Sonu C J.Bimodal composition and cyclic characteristics of beach sediment in continuously Changing profiles[J].Journal of Sedimentary Research,1972,42(4):852-857.
[21] Horn D P.Sediment dynamics on a macrotidal beach:Isle of Man,U.K.[J].Journal of Coastal Research,1993,9(1):189-208.
[22] Medina R,Losada M A,Losada I J,et al.Temporal and spatial relationship between sediment grain size and beach profile[J].Marine Geology,1994,118(3):195-206.
[23] Moutzouris C I.Longshore sediment transport rate vs.crossshore distribution of sediment grain sizes[J].Coastal Engineering,1988(21):1959-1973.
[24] Pruszak Z.The analysis of beach profile changes using Dean's method and empirical orthogonal functions[J].Coastal Engineering,1993,19(3-4):245-261.
[25]周在明,杨燕明,陈本清.秋季东山乌礁湾海滩表层沉积物粒度特征分析[J].应用海洋学学报,2015(1):41-48.[ZHOU Zaiming,YANG Yanming,CHEN Benqing.Analysis on grain size characteristics of surface sediments of Wujiao Bay in Dongshan sea area in autumn[J].Journal of Applied Oceanography,2015(1):41-48.]
[26]毛龙江,张永战,魏灵,等.海南岛三亚湾海滩研究[J].第四纪研究,2006,26(3):477-484.[MAO Longjiang,ZHANG Yongzhan,WEI Ling,et al.Study on beach characteristics in Sanya area of Hainan Island[J].Quaternary Sciences,2006,26(3):477-484.]
[27] Celikoˇglu Y,Yüksel Y,Kabda?lM S.Longshore sorting on a beach under wave action[J].Ocean Engineering,2004,31(11-12):1351-1375.
[28]蒋昌波,伍志元,陈杰,等.波浪作用下沙质海滩沉积物运动特征[J].应用基础与工程科学学,2016(2):262-271.[JIANG Changbo,WU Zhiyuan,CHEN Jie,et al.The Wave-induced sedimentology and sorting character of sandy beach[J].Journal of Basic Science and Engineering,2016(2):262-271.]
[29] Jiang C,Wu Z,Chen J,et al.Sorting and sedimentology character of sandy beach under wave action[J].Procedia Engineering,2015,116(1):771-777.
[30] Holmes P,Baldock T E,Chan R T C,et al.Beach evolution under random waves[J].Coastal Engineering,1996(25):3006-3019.
[31]陈希哲.土力学地基基础(第四版)[M].清华大学出版社,2004:42-45.[CHEN Xizhe.Soil Mechanics and Geotechnical Engineering(Fourth Edition)[M].Tsinghua University Press,2004:42-45.]
[32]任明达,王乃梁.现代沉积环境概论[M].北京:科学出版社,1981:8-16.[REN Mingda,WANG Nailiang.Outline of the Modern Sedimentary Environment[M].Beijing:Science Press,1981:8-16.]
[33]何文社,杨具瑞,方铎,等.泥沙颗粒暴露度与等效粒径研究[J].水利学报,2002,33(11):44-48.[HE Wenshe,YANG Jurui,FANG Duo,et al.Relative exposure degree and equivalent grain size of non-uniform sediment[J].Journal of Hydraulic Engineering,2002,33(11):44-48.]
[2]夏东兴,王文海,武桂秋,等.中国海岸侵蚀述要[J].地理学报,1993(5):468-476.[XIA Dongxing,WANG Wenhai,WU Guiqiu,et al.Coastal erosion in China[J].Acta Geographica Sinica,1993(5):468-476.]
[3]庄振业,曹立华,李兵,等.我国海滩养护现状[J].海洋地质与第四纪地质,.2011,31(3):133-139.[ZHUANG Zhenye,CAO Lihua,LI Bing,et al.An overview of beach nourishment in China[J].Marine Geology&Quaternary Geology,2011,31(3):133-139.]
[4]杨燕雄,张甲波,刘松涛.秦皇岛海滩养护工程的实践与方法[J].海洋地质前沿,2014,30(3):1-15.[YANG Yanxiong,ZHANG Jiabo,LIU Songtao.What we have learnt from the beach nourishment project in Qinhuangdao[J].Marine Geology Frontiers,2014,30(3):1-15.]
[5]杨燕雄,邱若峰,邹志利,等.北戴河海滩养护方案实验研究[J].水运工程,2010(4):18-23.[YANG Yanxiong,QIU Ruofeng,ZOU Zhili,et al.Experimental study on nourishment of Beidaihe beach[J].Port&Waterway Engineering,2010(4):18-23.]
[6]刘修锦,庄振业,谢亚琼,等.秦皇岛金梦湾海滩侵蚀和海滩养护[J].海洋地质前沿,2014,30(3):71-79.[LIU Xiujin,ZHUANG Zheye,XIE Yaqiong,et al.Beach erosion and beach nourishment of Jinmen Bay beach in Qinhuangdao[J].Marine Geology Frontiers,2014,30(3):71-79.]
[7]刘修锦,王永红,杨燕雄,等.海滩养护后剖面变化过程研究——以北戴河西海滩和中海滩为例[J].海洋地质前沿,2013(2):53-61.[LIU Xiujin,WANG Yonghong,YANG Yanxiong,et al.Changes in beach profile morphology after nourishment——A case from western and middle Beidaihe beaches[J].Marine Geology Frontiers,2013(2):53-61.]
[8]王永红,孙静,庄振业.青岛旅游海滩沉积物粒度的季节性变化特征和输运[J].中国海洋大学学报:自然科学版,2012(12):70-76.[WANG Yonghong,SUN Jing,ZHUANG Zheye.Seasonal Variations on Grain Size of the Sediments and their transport in tourism beach of Qingdao[J].Periodical of Ocean University of China,2012,42(12):70-76.]
[9]徐方建,赵永芳,李传顺,等.青岛市灵山湾海水浴场沉积物分布特征与影响因素[J].海洋通报,2014(2):157-162.[XU Fangjian,ZHAO Yongfang,LI Chuanshun,et al.Characteristics of sediment distribution and influencing factors at the Lingshanwan bathing beach of Qingdao[J].Marine Science Bulletin,2014,33(2):157-162.]
[10]陈正新,董贺平,赵德志,等.青岛前海沉积物运移特征[J].海洋地质与第四纪地质,2006,26(5):45-53.[CHEN Zhengxin,DONG Heping,ZHAO Dezhi,et al.Movements of sediments in the Qingdao City Coast[J].Marine Geology&Quaternary Geology,2006,26(5):45-53.]
[11]韩宗珠,徐翠玲,周艳芝,等.青岛仰口湾海滩沉积物粒度特征及动力环境响应[J].中国海洋大学学报:自然科学版,2013,43(11):77-81.[HAN Zongzhu,XU Cuiling,ZHOU Yanzhi,et al.Grain-size characteristics and dynamic environment of surficial sediment in Yangkou Bay Beach in Qingdao[J].Periodical of Ocean University of China,2013,43(11):77-81.]
[12]徐东浩,李军,赵京涛,等.辽东湾表层沉积物粒度分布特征及其地质意义[J].海洋地质与第四纪地质,2012(5):35-42.[XU Donghao,LI Jun,ZHAO Jingtao,et al.Grain-size distribution of surface sediments of the Liaodong Bay,Bohai and sedimentary environment restoration[J].Marine Geology&Quaternary Geology,2012,(5):35-42.]
[13]窦衍光,刘京鹏,李军,等.辽东湾东部砂质区沉积物粒度特征及其物源指示意义[J].海洋地质与第四纪地质,2013,33(5):27-34.[DOU Yanguang,LIU Jingpeng,LI Jun,et al.Grain size characteristics of the core sediments in the Eastern Liaodong Bay and implications for depositional environment[J].Marine Geology&Quaternary Geology,2013,33(5):27-34.]
[14]王永红,沈焕庭,李九发,等.长江河口涨落潮槽沉积物特征及其动力响应[J].沉积学报,2009,27(3):511-517.[WANG Yonghong,SHEN Huanting,LI Jiufa,et al.Sedimentary features of sediment and their responses to dynamics in the flood and ebb channel of the Changjiang Estuary[J].Acta Sedimentologica Sinica,2009,27(3):511-517.]
[15]严立文,黄海军,刘勇,等.莱州屺姆岛-刁龙咀近岸海域沉积物格局与粒径趋势[J].海洋地质与第四纪地质,2014,34(1):29-36.[YAN Liwen,HUANG Haijun,LIU Yong,et al.Sediment distributional pattern and grain size trends in the coastal area of Qimu island-diaolong cape,Laizhou[J].Marine Geology&Quaternary Geology,2014,34(1):29-36.]
[16]包敏,王永红,杨燕雄,等.北戴河西海滩人工养护前后沉积物粒度变化特征[J].海洋地质前沿,2010(9):25-34.[BAO Min,WANG Yonghong,YANG Yanxiong,et al.Changes in sediment grain—size before and after beach nourishment on the west beach of Beidaihe[J].Marine Geology Frontiers.2010(9):25-34.]
[17]褚智慧,王永红,庄振业,等.北戴河中海滩人工养护前后沉积物粒度变化特征[J].海洋地质前沿,2013,29(2):62-70.[CHU Zhihui,WANG Yonghong,ZHUANG Zhenye,et al.Changes in sediment grain size before and after beach nourishment in Middle Beidaihe Beach[J].Marine Geology Frontiers,2013,29(2):62-70.]
[18]杨燕雄,张甲波.治理海岸侵蚀的人工岬湾养滩综合法[J].海洋通报,2009,28(3):92-98.[YANG Yanxiong,ZHANG Jiabo.Headland control with nourishment to restore the eroded coast[J].Marine Science Bulletin,2009,28(3):92-98.]
[19] Celikoˇglu Y,Yüksel Y,Kabdasli M S.Cross-shore sorting on a beach under wave action[J].Journal of Coastal Research,2006,22(3):487-501.
[20] Sonu C J.Bimodal composition and cyclic characteristics of beach sediment in continuously Changing profiles[J].Journal of Sedimentary Research,1972,42(4):852-857.
[21] Horn D P.Sediment dynamics on a macrotidal beach:Isle of Man,U.K.[J].Journal of Coastal Research,1993,9(1):189-208.
[22] Medina R,Losada M A,Losada I J,et al.Temporal and spatial relationship between sediment grain size and beach profile[J].Marine Geology,1994,118(3):195-206.
[23] Moutzouris C I.Longshore sediment transport rate vs.crossshore distribution of sediment grain sizes[J].Coastal Engineering,1988(21):1959-1973.
[24] Pruszak Z.The analysis of beach profile changes using Dean's method and empirical orthogonal functions[J].Coastal Engineering,1993,19(3-4):245-261.
[25]周在明,杨燕明,陈本清.秋季东山乌礁湾海滩表层沉积物粒度特征分析[J].应用海洋学学报,2015(1):41-48.[ZHOU Zaiming,YANG Yanming,CHEN Benqing.Analysis on grain size characteristics of surface sediments of Wujiao Bay in Dongshan sea area in autumn[J].Journal of Applied Oceanography,2015(1):41-48.]
[26]毛龙江,张永战,魏灵,等.海南岛三亚湾海滩研究[J].第四纪研究,2006,26(3):477-484.[MAO Longjiang,ZHANG Yongzhan,WEI Ling,et al.Study on beach characteristics in Sanya area of Hainan Island[J].Quaternary Sciences,2006,26(3):477-484.]
[27] Celikoˇglu Y,Yüksel Y,Kabda?lM S.Longshore sorting on a beach under wave action[J].Ocean Engineering,2004,31(11-12):1351-1375.
[28]蒋昌波,伍志元,陈杰,等.波浪作用下沙质海滩沉积物运动特征[J].应用基础与工程科学学,2016(2):262-271.[JIANG Changbo,WU Zhiyuan,CHEN Jie,et al.The Wave-induced sedimentology and sorting character of sandy beach[J].Journal of Basic Science and Engineering,2016(2):262-271.]
[29] Jiang C,Wu Z,Chen J,et al.Sorting and sedimentology character of sandy beach under wave action[J].Procedia Engineering,2015,116(1):771-777.
[30] Holmes P,Baldock T E,Chan R T C,et al.Beach evolution under random waves[J].Coastal Engineering,1996(25):3006-3019.
[31]陈希哲.土力学地基基础(第四版)[M].清华大学出版社,2004:42-45.[CHEN Xizhe.Soil Mechanics and Geotechnical Engineering(Fourth Edition)[M].Tsinghua University Press,2004:42-45.]
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[33]何文社,杨具瑞,方铎,等.泥沙颗粒暴露度与等效粒径研究[J].水利学报,2002,33(11):44-48.[HE Wenshe,YANG Jurui,FANG Duo,et al.Relative exposure degree and equivalent grain size of non-uniform sediment[J].Journal of Hydraulic Engineering,2002,33(11):44-48.]
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