《上海漫画》中的旗袍与改良(1928——1930年)
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摘要
漫画作为研究近代服饰史的一种特殊图像资料,记录了当时服饰发展中引人深思的某些现象,也揭示了漫画作者对近代服饰改良过程的感受、理解与表达。从《上海漫画》中选择了部分作品,分析、探讨了1928——1930年间旗袍衣领变迁在漫画中的呈现、演绎,以及漫画作者对旗袍时尚发展的阐释和设计贡献。
As a special image data for studying the history of modern costume,caricatures record various thought-provoking phenomena in the development of dress at that time,and also reveal the author’s feelings,understanding and expression in the process of costume improvement. This paper selects some works from Shanghai Caricature to analyze and explore the presentation and deduction of the change in the cheongsam collar in the caricatures from 1928 to 1930,as well as the interpretation and design contributions of cartoonists to the development of cheongsam fashion.
As a special image data for studying the history of modern costume,caricatures record various thought-provoking phenomena in the development of dress at that time,and also reveal the author’s feelings,understanding and expression in the process of costume improvement. This paper selects some works from Shanghai Caricature to analyze and explore the presentation and deduction of the change in the cheongsam collar in the caricatures from 1928 to 1930,as well as the interpretation and design contributions of cartoonists to the development of cheongsam fashion.
引文
[1]屠诗聘.旗袍的旋律[J].良友,1940(150):60-61.TU Shipin.The melody of cheongsam[J].Liang You,1940(150):60-61.(in Chinese)
[2]屠诗聘.上海市大观:下册[M].上海:中国图书编译馆,1948:20-21.
[3]鲁少飞.领之改革[J].上海漫画,1928(8):4.LU Shaofei.Reformation of collar-band[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(8):4.(in Chinese)
[4]黄少农.开领与围领[J].上海漫画,1928(10):8.HUANG Shaonong.Open collar-band and close collarband[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(10):8.(in Chinese)
[5]叶浅予.领口的样式[J].上海漫画,1929(52):4.YE Qianyu.Styles of collar-band[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1929(52):4.(in Chinese)
[6]叶浅予.高硬领在夏季应用改良[J].上海漫画,1928(61):4.YE Qianyu.Summer leader should be improved[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(61):4.(in Chinese)
[7]叶浅予.最近的旗袍(局部)[J].上海漫画,1929(68):4.YE Qianyu.Latest cheongsam(part)[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1929(68):4.(in Chinese)
[8]鲁少飞.时装两种[J].上海漫画,1928(1):4.LU Shaofei.Two kinds of fashionable dresses[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(1):4.(in Chinese)
[9]叶浅予.黑白图案[J].上海漫画,1928(6):4.YE Qianyu.Black and white pattern[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(6):4.(in Chinese)
[10]李寓一.妇女之衣裙[M]//先施公司二十五年纪念册.二十五年来中国各大都会妆饰谈(清光绪二十五年至民国十三年).香港:先施公司,1924:280-281.
[11]叶浅予.细叙沧桑记流年[M].南京:江苏凤凰出版传媒集团,2012:60,70.
[12]叶浅予.时装4种[J].上海漫画,1928(11):4.YE Qianyu.Four kinds of fashionable dresses[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(11):4.(in Chinese)
[13]叶浅予.新秋之装[J].上海漫画,1928(20):4.YE Qianyu.New dress of autumn[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(20):4.(in Chinese)
[14]方雪鸪.时装画[J].上海漫画,1928(22):4.FANG Xuegu.Fashion illustrations[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(22):4.(in Chinese)
[15]叶浅予.舞女之装[J].上海漫画,1928(4):4.YE Qianyu.Dress of dancing girls[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(4):4.(in Chinese)
[16]叶浅予.冬日袍式[J].上海漫画,1929(38):4.YE Qianyu.Dress style of winter[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1929(38):4.(in Chinese)
[17]叶浅予.时装6款[J].上海漫画,1929(45):4.YE Qianyu.Fashion six pieces[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1929(45):4.(in Chinese)
[18]叶浅予.新秋之美[J].上海漫画,1929(72):4.YE Qianyu.Beauty of new autumn[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1929(72):4.(in Chinese)
[19]叶浅予.以蛇为主题的时装画[J].上海漫画,1928(43):4.YE Qianyu.Snake-themed fashion paitings[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(43):4.(in Chinese)
[20]叶浅予.时装漫画[J].上海漫画,1929(87):4.YE Qianyu.Fashion illustrations[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1929(87):4.(in Chinese)
[21]叶浅予.新装束1[J].上海漫画,1930(106):5.YE Qianyu.New dress 1[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1930(106):5.(in Chinese)
[22]叶浅予.新装束2[J].上海漫画,1930(106):5.YE Qianyu.New dress 2[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1930(105):4.(in Chinese)
[2]屠诗聘.上海市大观:下册[M].上海:中国图书编译馆,1948:20-21.
[3]鲁少飞.领之改革[J].上海漫画,1928(8):4.LU Shaofei.Reformation of collar-band[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(8):4.(in Chinese)
[4]黄少农.开领与围领[J].上海漫画,1928(10):8.HUANG Shaonong.Open collar-band and close collarband[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(10):8.(in Chinese)
[5]叶浅予.领口的样式[J].上海漫画,1929(52):4.YE Qianyu.Styles of collar-band[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1929(52):4.(in Chinese)
[6]叶浅予.高硬领在夏季应用改良[J].上海漫画,1928(61):4.YE Qianyu.Summer leader should be improved[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(61):4.(in Chinese)
[7]叶浅予.最近的旗袍(局部)[J].上海漫画,1929(68):4.YE Qianyu.Latest cheongsam(part)[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1929(68):4.(in Chinese)
[8]鲁少飞.时装两种[J].上海漫画,1928(1):4.LU Shaofei.Two kinds of fashionable dresses[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(1):4.(in Chinese)
[9]叶浅予.黑白图案[J].上海漫画,1928(6):4.YE Qianyu.Black and white pattern[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(6):4.(in Chinese)
[10]李寓一.妇女之衣裙[M]//先施公司二十五年纪念册.二十五年来中国各大都会妆饰谈(清光绪二十五年至民国十三年).香港:先施公司,1924:280-281.
[11]叶浅予.细叙沧桑记流年[M].南京:江苏凤凰出版传媒集团,2012:60,70.
[12]叶浅予.时装4种[J].上海漫画,1928(11):4.YE Qianyu.Four kinds of fashionable dresses[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(11):4.(in Chinese)
[13]叶浅予.新秋之装[J].上海漫画,1928(20):4.YE Qianyu.New dress of autumn[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(20):4.(in Chinese)
[14]方雪鸪.时装画[J].上海漫画,1928(22):4.FANG Xuegu.Fashion illustrations[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(22):4.(in Chinese)
[15]叶浅予.舞女之装[J].上海漫画,1928(4):4.YE Qianyu.Dress of dancing girls[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(4):4.(in Chinese)
[16]叶浅予.冬日袍式[J].上海漫画,1929(38):4.YE Qianyu.Dress style of winter[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1929(38):4.(in Chinese)
[17]叶浅予.时装6款[J].上海漫画,1929(45):4.YE Qianyu.Fashion six pieces[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1929(45):4.(in Chinese)
[18]叶浅予.新秋之美[J].上海漫画,1929(72):4.YE Qianyu.Beauty of new autumn[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1929(72):4.(in Chinese)
[19]叶浅予.以蛇为主题的时装画[J].上海漫画,1928(43):4.YE Qianyu.Snake-themed fashion paitings[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1928(43):4.(in Chinese)
[20]叶浅予.时装漫画[J].上海漫画,1929(87):4.YE Qianyu.Fashion illustrations[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1929(87):4.(in Chinese)
[21]叶浅予.新装束1[J].上海漫画,1930(106):5.YE Qianyu.New dress 1[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1930(106):5.(in Chinese)
[22]叶浅予.新装束2[J].上海漫画,1930(106):5.YE Qianyu.New dress 2[J].Shanghai Cartoon,1930(105):4.(in Chinese)